Gates

Gate Design. Gates should have the
same strength and safety as the fence.
Gates can be bought or built in as
many styles as fence but do not have
to be the same style as the fence. The
most common and recommended
materials are wood and metal tubes.
Easy-to-assemble kits for wooden
gates with all the hardware, including
fasteners, braces, hinges, and latches,
can be bought from farm, lumber, or
hardware stores. Horse-safe tubular
pipe steel gates (often 13⁄8-inch outer
diameter pipes) have smooth corners
and securely welded cross pipes to
minimize sharp-edged places for cuts
and snags. By contrast, channelsteel
or aluminum stock livestock gates are
not recommended for horse use due
to their less-sturdy construction and
numerous sharp edges.
Avoid gates with diagonal cross
bracing. Although this strengthens
the gate, the narrow angles can trap
legs, feet, and possibly heads. Cablesupported
gates offer a similar hazard
to horses congregating around the
gate. If gate supports are needed,
a wooden block called a short post
can be placed under the free hanging
end of the gate to help support
its weight and extend hardware life.
The use of a cattle guard (rails set
over a ditch) instead of a gate is not
recommended since horses do not
consistently respect them. Horses
have been known to jump them or
try to walk over them, which results
in tangled and broken legs.
Gates should be as tall as the fence
to discourage horses from reaching
over or attempting to jump over the
gate. Gates can be up to 16-feet wide,
with a minimum of 12 feet to allow
easy passage of vehicles and tractors.
Horse and handler gates should be
no less than 4-feet wide, with 5 feet
preferred. Human-only passages are
useful for chore time efficiency.
Fencing near gates needs to withstand
the pressures of horses congregating
around the gate, which means
it needs to be sturdy, highly visible,
and safe from trapping horse feet
and heads. Some paddock gates are
positioned to swing into the pressure
of the horse to prevent horses from
pushing the gate open and breaking
latches. On the other hand, gates that
are capable of swinging both into and
out of the enclosure are helpful when
moving horses. Additional latches are
recommended to secure the gate in
an open position, fully swung against
the fence, not projecting into the
enclosure.
Gates are hung to swing freely
and not sag over time. The post
holding the swinging gate maintains
this free-swinging action, necessitating
a deeply set post with a larger
diameter than fenceline posts. Gate
hardware must withstand the challenges
of leaning horses and years
of use. A person should be able to
unlock, swing open, shut, and lock a
properly designed gate with only one
hand so that the other hand is free to
lead a horse or carry a bucket, for
example.

Until next time......Happy Trails.