Why in the world would I pay you a commission to help me sell my land?” This is a fair question for a landowner to ask. Let’s consider a few points, from a land agent’s perspective, on why an agent can be worth the money. I will grant that there are many savvy property owners that buy, sell, and trade land often. This type of owner loves to dicker and receives a thrill from each transaction. He may or may not need an agent’s help as he has done a dozen or more deals on his own. The majority of landowners sell their land once in a lifetime, and having an experiecend adviser when navigating these murky waters can be quite helpful. Consider several key ways an agent earns their commission.
1. Pricing your property accurately in the current market. An experienced agent will have the pulse of the current market in the area. They know the comparable sales history, and have a feel for what buyers are looking for and willing to pay. In the current market, I have seen buyers be sensitive within $100 to $200 an acre, so getting the right price is crucial to attracting buyer interest.
2. Marketing the property in media that buyers use. Placing an ad in the local newspaper may garner some interest, but one recent statistic says that over 80% of land buyers search for property online before going to look at land. As a landowner, can you afford to pay the monthly fees to advertise your one listing on land sites, and which ones generate the best activity? A good agent will give your land exposure to buyers in many different forms.
3. Answering phone calls and showing the property. Are you willing to field the phone calls of every person that wants to cut off the front 1 acre of your 120 acre tract? How many times do you have to give up a Saturday or take off work, only to be stood up by someone before that gets old?
4. Negotiating and writing the contract. The realtor’s job really begins once the contract is written and the negotiations begin. Going back and forth with tact and integrity can be taxing on even the most seasoned agent. Navigating emotions and potential hiccups is essential if the deal is to be transacted. Many owners appreciate not having to feel the heat of negotiations and can let attachment to the property or other emotions cloud the business transaction.
5. Professional networks. This past week I had to have a survey performed on a parcel we have under contract. I got 5 quotes from different companies before we were able to select the best price and the fastest service. How much time do you want to devote to getting quotes from surveyors? You need an agent with a network of foresters, surveyors, closing attorneys, builders, home inspectors, appraisers, lenders, bull dozier operators, bushhog operators, and a host of other contacts that service landowners. When you select a good agent, you not only get her, you get her whole network at your disposal. Keeping all of these people motivated and on track so you can meet your closing date requres a great deal of effort and attention on the part of the agent.
6. Accuracy at closing. Do you know how to read a HUD 1 Settlement Form and make sure that all of the numbers add up? This can lead to costly mistakes or even the loss of a deal in a worst-case scenario. These forms can appear to be written in a different language to the uninitiated. The agent will contact you at least 24 hours ahead of the closing to go over the HUD 1 and also provide you for instructions on what you will need to bring or be prepared for at the closing table.
These are a few of the ways land agents earn their money. Generally a good agent will help you make or retain more money than their commission. If you are on the fence about whether to strike out on your own or to use an agent, give them a call and become more informed. Ask the agent why in the world you should pay them a commission and see what they say. If you’re in Kansas or Missouri and are considering selling, we would love a chance to earn your business.
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Saturday, July 25, 2009
Gates
Gate Design. Gates should have the
same strength and safety as the fence.
Gates can be bought or built in as
many styles as fence but do not have
to be the same style as the fence. The
most common and recommended
materials are wood and metal tubes.
Easy-to-assemble kits for wooden
gates with all the hardware, including
fasteners, braces, hinges, and latches,
can be bought from farm, lumber, or
hardware stores. Horse-safe tubular
pipe steel gates (often 13⁄8-inch outer
diameter pipes) have smooth corners
and securely welded cross pipes to
minimize sharp-edged places for cuts
and snags. By contrast, channelsteel
or aluminum stock livestock gates are
not recommended for horse use due
to their less-sturdy construction and
numerous sharp edges.
Avoid gates with diagonal cross
bracing. Although this strengthens
the gate, the narrow angles can trap
legs, feet, and possibly heads. Cablesupported
gates offer a similar hazard
to horses congregating around the
gate. If gate supports are needed,
a wooden block called a short post
can be placed under the free hanging
end of the gate to help support
its weight and extend hardware life.
The use of a cattle guard (rails set
over a ditch) instead of a gate is not
recommended since horses do not
consistently respect them. Horses
have been known to jump them or
try to walk over them, which results
in tangled and broken legs.
Gates should be as tall as the fence
to discourage horses from reaching
over or attempting to jump over the
gate. Gates can be up to 16-feet wide,
with a minimum of 12 feet to allow
easy passage of vehicles and tractors.
Horse and handler gates should be
no less than 4-feet wide, with 5 feet
preferred. Human-only passages are
useful for chore time efficiency.
Fencing near gates needs to withstand
the pressures of horses congregating
around the gate, which means
it needs to be sturdy, highly visible,
and safe from trapping horse feet
and heads. Some paddock gates are
positioned to swing into the pressure
of the horse to prevent horses from
pushing the gate open and breaking
latches. On the other hand, gates that
are capable of swinging both into and
out of the enclosure are helpful when
moving horses. Additional latches are
recommended to secure the gate in
an open position, fully swung against
the fence, not projecting into the
enclosure.
Gates are hung to swing freely
and not sag over time. The post
holding the swinging gate maintains
this free-swinging action, necessitating
a deeply set post with a larger
diameter than fenceline posts. Gate
hardware must withstand the challenges
of leaning horses and years
of use. A person should be able to
unlock, swing open, shut, and lock a
properly designed gate with only one
hand so that the other hand is free to
lead a horse or carry a bucket, for
example.
Until next time......Happy Trails.
same strength and safety as the fence.
Gates can be bought or built in as
many styles as fence but do not have
to be the same style as the fence. The
most common and recommended
materials are wood and metal tubes.
Easy-to-assemble kits for wooden
gates with all the hardware, including
fasteners, braces, hinges, and latches,
can be bought from farm, lumber, or
hardware stores. Horse-safe tubular
pipe steel gates (often 13⁄8-inch outer
diameter pipes) have smooth corners
and securely welded cross pipes to
minimize sharp-edged places for cuts
and snags. By contrast, channelsteel
or aluminum stock livestock gates are
not recommended for horse use due
to their less-sturdy construction and
numerous sharp edges.
Avoid gates with diagonal cross
bracing. Although this strengthens
the gate, the narrow angles can trap
legs, feet, and possibly heads. Cablesupported
gates offer a similar hazard
to horses congregating around the
gate. If gate supports are needed,
a wooden block called a short post
can be placed under the free hanging
end of the gate to help support
its weight and extend hardware life.
The use of a cattle guard (rails set
over a ditch) instead of a gate is not
recommended since horses do not
consistently respect them. Horses
have been known to jump them or
try to walk over them, which results
in tangled and broken legs.
Gates should be as tall as the fence
to discourage horses from reaching
over or attempting to jump over the
gate. Gates can be up to 16-feet wide,
with a minimum of 12 feet to allow
easy passage of vehicles and tractors.
Horse and handler gates should be
no less than 4-feet wide, with 5 feet
preferred. Human-only passages are
useful for chore time efficiency.
Fencing near gates needs to withstand
the pressures of horses congregating
around the gate, which means
it needs to be sturdy, highly visible,
and safe from trapping horse feet
and heads. Some paddock gates are
positioned to swing into the pressure
of the horse to prevent horses from
pushing the gate open and breaking
latches. On the other hand, gates that
are capable of swinging both into and
out of the enclosure are helpful when
moving horses. Additional latches are
recommended to secure the gate in
an open position, fully swung against
the fence, not projecting into the
enclosure.
Gates are hung to swing freely
and not sag over time. The post
holding the swinging gate maintains
this free-swinging action, necessitating
a deeply set post with a larger
diameter than fenceline posts. Gate
hardware must withstand the challenges
of leaning horses and years
of use. A person should be able to
unlock, swing open, shut, and lock a
properly designed gate with only one
hand so that the other hand is free to
lead a horse or carry a bucket, for
example.
Until next time......Happy Trails.
Monday, July 13, 2009
Are we at the bottom of the market?
We are a nation obsessed with looking for, hoping for and predicting The Bottom of this real-estate market. In our spare time, some may also root for — in both senses — bottoms in stocks, commodities and uncommon viruses.
Why do we peer down so hard? A bottom means things won’t get any worse. But how long the worst lasts is unknowable.
Many of us believe, even though we don’t say so, that once we’re on the bottom, things, eventually, will scoot up to where they were a couple of years ago. Or put simply: A house worth $250,000 will once again sell for $500,000 after 15 days on the market.
This is a ruinous hope. The only way to get back there quickly is to do it the way we got there in the first place. The factors that “steroided” property values after 2000 caused the tumble that we are now riding down.
The real-estate frolic was not, shall we say, sustainable, because it was the product of fraudulent appraisals, unscrupulous lenders, greed-driven speculators, individual home buyers who chose not to add or subtract, gamblers and crooks masquerading as risk managers, brokers and agents who made hay while the sun shone, commentators who blew hot air into the bubble, government regulators who did not regulate and politicians who did not want to rock a ship of self-interested fools. (If I missed somebody, it was not intentional.)
If the same players are allowed to start playing the game the old way, we will have wasted the billions in public bailouts and set ourselves up for an even bigger wreck.
We will know when real estate has bottomed in hindsight. No one can predict it in advance since many “other shoes” are out there that may or may not drop.
Recent surveys of Realtors by HomeGain and consumers by Zillow, as reported in Inman News (“Realtors optimistic about price bottom,” May 18, 2009) as well as a member survey from the National Home Builders Association (“Builder confidence continues to rise in May,” May 18, 2009) suggest a small increase in confidence in each of the three groups. Hope, of course, doesn’t hurt.
Confidence breeds confidence, which is the trampoline for any bounce. But expressing survey confidence in the future while the present is still in a slide can be rooted as much in desperation as in the first glimmers of a genuine turnaround.
All real estate is local. A bottom here may hit long before a bottom there. One can last six months, the other five years. The 50 percent asking-price reductions now seen in some parts of California, Nevada and Florida may still reflect inflated seller expectations, while 20 percent off in the northern Shenandoah Valley may be as low as it’s going to go.
When market indicators finally suggest that we had hit bottom a few months earlier, the blessed event will reflect national averages for existing home sales, new house starts, price, inventory and foreclosures. Those numbers will have national relevance, but their effect on individuals will vary. Some sellers will give up, either by bottoming their price or being foreclosed. Others will tough it out in expectation of the upturn.
The bell tolling the national bottom may be barely heard in local real-estate markets that don’t track the national average, particularly those that are smaller, less urban/suburban, more specialized and less punched up by subprime loans and foreclosures.
Rural property asking prices (and presumably values and selling prices), taken as a whole, have held up better than metropolitan residential values. But each seller, even in the strongest local market, has to be given a written offer to test his taste for a sale. Buyers don’t know what a seller will take unless they ask through an offer.
The individual seller is always the judge of his own bottom—and that’s the only one that counts for both buyer and seller. Assume that if a property is for sale in a market as weak as this, the seller wants to sell. Offers test how much a seller needs to sell.
My advice to sellers: Postpone selling if you can. Wait, if you’re able, until you see clear, modest upward trends. Then move…and don’t be greedy.
If you must sell right now, ask what you think your property is worth under a cold, hard light, but be prepared to move down as fast as you have to. Sell “as is.” Be transparent about your need to sell and don’t send mixed signals. You’ll find out the current market value of your property quickly.
My advice to buyers: Figure out what a particular property is worth to you right now given its assets and negatives, weighed against your financial resources and plans. Forget about timing the market and buying at the bottom. Come up with an offer that makes sense to you, regardless of asking price, comparables, appraisals, competitive market analyses and the opinion of your wife’s third cousin who operates a taxi in Manhattan and is widely reported to have once driven Suze Orman to a matinee.
Bottoming out will require adjusting the expectations of have-to-sell-now sellers in most real-estate markets. This will bring more pain. They will have to forget the selling prices of the recent past and lower their expectations of the anticipated appreciation rate that recovery will bring. Some comfort may be found in understanding that future appreciation rates will not be juiced-up once again by the financial lemons on which we have all soured.
A 3-to-5 percent annual gain works for all. Ten percent or more will ultimately penalize everyone again.
It’s the bottoming of expectations — seller by seller, market by market — that will bring us up and out.
Why do we peer down so hard? A bottom means things won’t get any worse. But how long the worst lasts is unknowable.
Many of us believe, even though we don’t say so, that once we’re on the bottom, things, eventually, will scoot up to where they were a couple of years ago. Or put simply: A house worth $250,000 will once again sell for $500,000 after 15 days on the market.
This is a ruinous hope. The only way to get back there quickly is to do it the way we got there in the first place. The factors that “steroided” property values after 2000 caused the tumble that we are now riding down.
The real-estate frolic was not, shall we say, sustainable, because it was the product of fraudulent appraisals, unscrupulous lenders, greed-driven speculators, individual home buyers who chose not to add or subtract, gamblers and crooks masquerading as risk managers, brokers and agents who made hay while the sun shone, commentators who blew hot air into the bubble, government regulators who did not regulate and politicians who did not want to rock a ship of self-interested fools. (If I missed somebody, it was not intentional.)
If the same players are allowed to start playing the game the old way, we will have wasted the billions in public bailouts and set ourselves up for an even bigger wreck.
We will know when real estate has bottomed in hindsight. No one can predict it in advance since many “other shoes” are out there that may or may not drop.
Recent surveys of Realtors by HomeGain and consumers by Zillow, as reported in Inman News (“Realtors optimistic about price bottom,” May 18, 2009) as well as a member survey from the National Home Builders Association (“Builder confidence continues to rise in May,” May 18, 2009) suggest a small increase in confidence in each of the three groups. Hope, of course, doesn’t hurt.
Confidence breeds confidence, which is the trampoline for any bounce. But expressing survey confidence in the future while the present is still in a slide can be rooted as much in desperation as in the first glimmers of a genuine turnaround.
All real estate is local. A bottom here may hit long before a bottom there. One can last six months, the other five years. The 50 percent asking-price reductions now seen in some parts of California, Nevada and Florida may still reflect inflated seller expectations, while 20 percent off in the northern Shenandoah Valley may be as low as it’s going to go.
When market indicators finally suggest that we had hit bottom a few months earlier, the blessed event will reflect national averages for existing home sales, new house starts, price, inventory and foreclosures. Those numbers will have national relevance, but their effect on individuals will vary. Some sellers will give up, either by bottoming their price or being foreclosed. Others will tough it out in expectation of the upturn.
The bell tolling the national bottom may be barely heard in local real-estate markets that don’t track the national average, particularly those that are smaller, less urban/suburban, more specialized and less punched up by subprime loans and foreclosures.
Rural property asking prices (and presumably values and selling prices), taken as a whole, have held up better than metropolitan residential values. But each seller, even in the strongest local market, has to be given a written offer to test his taste for a sale. Buyers don’t know what a seller will take unless they ask through an offer.
The individual seller is always the judge of his own bottom—and that’s the only one that counts for both buyer and seller. Assume that if a property is for sale in a market as weak as this, the seller wants to sell. Offers test how much a seller needs to sell.
My advice to sellers: Postpone selling if you can. Wait, if you’re able, until you see clear, modest upward trends. Then move…and don’t be greedy.
If you must sell right now, ask what you think your property is worth under a cold, hard light, but be prepared to move down as fast as you have to. Sell “as is.” Be transparent about your need to sell and don’t send mixed signals. You’ll find out the current market value of your property quickly.
My advice to buyers: Figure out what a particular property is worth to you right now given its assets and negatives, weighed against your financial resources and plans. Forget about timing the market and buying at the bottom. Come up with an offer that makes sense to you, regardless of asking price, comparables, appraisals, competitive market analyses and the opinion of your wife’s third cousin who operates a taxi in Manhattan and is widely reported to have once driven Suze Orman to a matinee.
Bottoming out will require adjusting the expectations of have-to-sell-now sellers in most real-estate markets. This will bring more pain. They will have to forget the selling prices of the recent past and lower their expectations of the anticipated appreciation rate that recovery will bring. Some comfort may be found in understanding that future appreciation rates will not be juiced-up once again by the financial lemons on which we have all soured.
A 3-to-5 percent annual gain works for all. Ten percent or more will ultimately penalize everyone again.
It’s the bottoming of expectations — seller by seller, market by market — that will bring us up and out.
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Fence Posts
The fence post is the foundation of
the fence, so its importance cannot
be overemphasized. The common element
in virtually all successful horse
fences is a wooden post. Setting posts
represents the hardest work and the
most time-consuming part of fence
building and is absolutely the most
critical to the long-term success of
the fence.
Driven posts are more rigid and
therefore recommended over handset
posts or those set in predrilled
holes. Driven posts are pounded into
the ground through a combination
of weight and impact by specialized
equipment. The principle behind
driven posts that makes them so
secure is that the displaced soil is
highly compacted around the post,
resisting post movement. Even for
do-it-yourself projects, you should
contract the job of driving posts. Postdriver
equipment is nearly impossible
to rent due to liability concerns.
Under some dry, hard, or rocky soil
conditions, a small-bore hole will be
necessary for driven posts.
Wood is recommended for all
horse fence posts. The best buy is a
pressure-treated post from a reputable
dealer. The preservative must be
properly applied to be fully effective.
Initially, treated posts are more expensive
than untreated ones, but they
last four times as long as untreated
ones. Depending on soil conditions
and preservative treatment quality,
a pressure-treated post can last 10 to
25 years.
Suitable wooden fence posts are
similar for board and mesh fences.
High-tensile wire and other strandtype
fences require similar posts, but
distances between posts are often
much longer than for board or mesh
fence. Post distance on high-tensile
wire fence depends on wind influences
and topography. Round wood
posts are stronger and accept more
uniform pressure treatment than
square posts of similar dimension.
Attachment of wooden rail boards to
round wood posts is improved when
one face of the post is flat.
Exceptions to wood posts are allowed
for horse-safe steel posts typically
used on chain link fences, pipe
posts from welded fences, and rigid
PVC fence post. Hollow posts require
top caps to cover the ragged top edge,
or should be designed that the top
fence rail covers the top of the post.
Recycled plastic, 4-inch-diameter solid
posts are suitable for horse fence, but
require a small-bore pilot hole before
driving. Metal and fiberglass T-posts
are slightly cheaper but pose a serious
risk of impalement and are not recommended.
They are also not strong
enough to withstand horse impact
without bending. With a plastic safety
cap installed on the top, T-posts may
be cautiously used in very large pastures
where horse contact is rare.
How deep to set the post for structural
stability varies considerably with
soil conditions. Soil characteristics
play a major role in determining the
longevity and maintenance requirements
of a fence. Some soils remain
wet and can quickly rot untreated
wooden posts. Posts in sandy or
chronically wet soil will need to be
set deeper and perhaps supported
by a collar of concrete casing. Other
soils tend to heave with frost and can
loosen posts that are not driven deep
enough. Fences under tension, such
as wire strand or mesh materials,
will require deeply set posts to offer
long-term resistance against tension.
A typical line post depth is 36 inches.
Corner and gateposts are required to
handle greater loads and are about
25% larger in diameter and are set
deeper, often to 48 inches.-
the fence, so its importance cannot
be overemphasized. The common element
in virtually all successful horse
fences is a wooden post. Setting posts
represents the hardest work and the
most time-consuming part of fence
building and is absolutely the most
critical to the long-term success of
the fence.
Driven posts are more rigid and
therefore recommended over handset
posts or those set in predrilled
holes. Driven posts are pounded into
the ground through a combination
of weight and impact by specialized
equipment. The principle behind
driven posts that makes them so
secure is that the displaced soil is
highly compacted around the post,
resisting post movement. Even for
do-it-yourself projects, you should
contract the job of driving posts. Postdriver
equipment is nearly impossible
to rent due to liability concerns.
Under some dry, hard, or rocky soil
conditions, a small-bore hole will be
necessary for driven posts.
Wood is recommended for all
horse fence posts. The best buy is a
pressure-treated post from a reputable
dealer. The preservative must be
properly applied to be fully effective.
Initially, treated posts are more expensive
than untreated ones, but they
last four times as long as untreated
ones. Depending on soil conditions
and preservative treatment quality,
a pressure-treated post can last 10 to
25 years.
Suitable wooden fence posts are
similar for board and mesh fences.
High-tensile wire and other strandtype
fences require similar posts, but
distances between posts are often
much longer than for board or mesh
fence. Post distance on high-tensile
wire fence depends on wind influences
and topography. Round wood
posts are stronger and accept more
uniform pressure treatment than
square posts of similar dimension.
Attachment of wooden rail boards to
round wood posts is improved when
one face of the post is flat.
Exceptions to wood posts are allowed
for horse-safe steel posts typically
used on chain link fences, pipe
posts from welded fences, and rigid
PVC fence post. Hollow posts require
top caps to cover the ragged top edge,
or should be designed that the top
fence rail covers the top of the post.
Recycled plastic, 4-inch-diameter solid
posts are suitable for horse fence, but
require a small-bore pilot hole before
driving. Metal and fiberglass T-posts
are slightly cheaper but pose a serious
risk of impalement and are not recommended.
They are also not strong
enough to withstand horse impact
without bending. With a plastic safety
cap installed on the top, T-posts may
be cautiously used in very large pastures
where horse contact is rare.
How deep to set the post for structural
stability varies considerably with
soil conditions. Soil characteristics
play a major role in determining the
longevity and maintenance requirements
of a fence. Some soils remain
wet and can quickly rot untreated
wooden posts. Posts in sandy or
chronically wet soil will need to be
set deeper and perhaps supported
by a collar of concrete casing. Other
soils tend to heave with frost and can
loosen posts that are not driven deep
enough. Fences under tension, such
as wire strand or mesh materials,
will require deeply set posts to offer
long-term resistance against tension.
A typical line post depth is 36 inches.
Corner and gateposts are required to
handle greater loads and are about
25% larger in diameter and are set
deeper, often to 48 inches.-
Monday, July 6, 2009
Why doesn't my agent want to list my property?
If you’ve been interviewing agents and find for some reason that they don’t seem as enthusiastic about your property as you’d like maybe it’s because they don’t want to be the first one to list your property. Most experienced agents will tell you they’d rather be the second or third rather than the first agent to list a property.
Why would they say that? Wouldn’t anyone want to list a property first so as to have the first chance to sell it and earn a listing commission? Well yes, but that’s only if they think your property will sell. If they think the property won’t sell, and let’s be candid here most of the time it’s because they believe you want too much money for the property, they’d just as soon another agent has it first. They prefer that agent has to deal with your frustration at not getting it sold.
Most of the time that first agent will earn the wrath of the seller for “not working hard enough”, or “never showing the property”, or “not advertising it enough”, or some other fault that makes the seller certain the only reason the property did not sell is because of the inadequacies of his agent. Now there are occasions when those criticisms are fair and valid.
But if you’ve talked with several agents and they all seem lukewarm to listing your property they are telling you what you probably don’t want to hear. You are pricing your property too high for this market. They’d just as soon you learned your lesson about the realities of this market at the expense of another agent rather than them. So that by the time you turn to them you will be far more realistic about what your property will likely bring.
There isn’t an experienced agent out there, who hasn’t lost a listing, and endured a frustrated seller only to watch the seller lower the price significantly for the second or third agent, and then talk about how much better their new agent was. Sigh it’s all part of the game. But just be wary, those agents who seem unenthusiastic about your property, want the listing all right, they just want it after you’ve taken your lumps and frustration out on some other agent first.
Why would they say that? Wouldn’t anyone want to list a property first so as to have the first chance to sell it and earn a listing commission? Well yes, but that’s only if they think your property will sell. If they think the property won’t sell, and let’s be candid here most of the time it’s because they believe you want too much money for the property, they’d just as soon another agent has it first. They prefer that agent has to deal with your frustration at not getting it sold.
Most of the time that first agent will earn the wrath of the seller for “not working hard enough”, or “never showing the property”, or “not advertising it enough”, or some other fault that makes the seller certain the only reason the property did not sell is because of the inadequacies of his agent. Now there are occasions when those criticisms are fair and valid.
But if you’ve talked with several agents and they all seem lukewarm to listing your property they are telling you what you probably don’t want to hear. You are pricing your property too high for this market. They’d just as soon you learned your lesson about the realities of this market at the expense of another agent rather than them. So that by the time you turn to them you will be far more realistic about what your property will likely bring.
There isn’t an experienced agent out there, who hasn’t lost a listing, and endured a frustrated seller only to watch the seller lower the price significantly for the second or third agent, and then talk about how much better their new agent was. Sigh it’s all part of the game. But just be wary, those agents who seem unenthusiastic about your property, want the listing all right, they just want it after you’ve taken your lumps and frustration out on some other agent first.
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Do I have the right fence?
Horse fencing can be the most attractive
features of a horse facility. But not all fence
is suitable for horses. Fencing is a
major capital investment that should
be carefully planned before construction.
A fence should keep horses on
the property and keep away nuisances
such as dogs and unwanted visitors.
Fences aid facility management by
allowing controlled grazing and segregating
groups of horses according
to sex, age, value, or use.
Well-constructed and maintained
fences enhance the aesthetics and
value of a stable facility, which in
turn complements marketing efforts.
Poorly planned, haphazard, unsafe,
or unmaintained fences will detract
from a facility’s value and reflect poor
management. Good fences can be
formal or informal in appearance, yet
all should be well built and carefully
planned. Many experienced horse
owners will relay stories about the
savings for cheaper, but unsafe, horse
fence (barbed wire, for example)
eventually being paid for in veterinary
bills to treat injured horses.
Often, more than one kind of
fence is used at a facility. Different
fences might be installed for grazing
pastures, exercise paddocks, riding
areas, or for securing property lines.
Land topography influences the look,
effectiveness, and installation of fencing.
Consider different horse groups.
Stallions, weanlings, mares, mares
with foals, and geldings all have different
fencing requirements.
Pasture use may range from exercise
paddocks (corrals) to grazing
or hay production. Paddock layout
should allow for ease of management,
including movement of horses,
removal of manure, and care of
the footing surface. Pasture design
should allow field equipment, such
as mowers, manure spreaders, and
baling equipment, to enter and maneuver
easily. This will reduce fence
damage by machinery and the time
needed to work in the field.
Next week I will talk about the importance of using the correct fense posts.
Until next week.......Happy Trails.
features of a horse facility. But not all fence
is suitable for horses. Fencing is a
major capital investment that should
be carefully planned before construction.
A fence should keep horses on
the property and keep away nuisances
such as dogs and unwanted visitors.
Fences aid facility management by
allowing controlled grazing and segregating
groups of horses according
to sex, age, value, or use.
Well-constructed and maintained
fences enhance the aesthetics and
value of a stable facility, which in
turn complements marketing efforts.
Poorly planned, haphazard, unsafe,
or unmaintained fences will detract
from a facility’s value and reflect poor
management. Good fences can be
formal or informal in appearance, yet
all should be well built and carefully
planned. Many experienced horse
owners will relay stories about the
savings for cheaper, but unsafe, horse
fence (barbed wire, for example)
eventually being paid for in veterinary
bills to treat injured horses.
Often, more than one kind of
fence is used at a facility. Different
fences might be installed for grazing
pastures, exercise paddocks, riding
areas, or for securing property lines.
Land topography influences the look,
effectiveness, and installation of fencing.
Consider different horse groups.
Stallions, weanlings, mares, mares
with foals, and geldings all have different
fencing requirements.
Pasture use may range from exercise
paddocks (corrals) to grazing
or hay production. Paddock layout
should allow for ease of management,
including movement of horses,
removal of manure, and care of
the footing surface. Pasture design
should allow field equipment, such
as mowers, manure spreaders, and
baling equipment, to enter and maneuver
easily. This will reduce fence
damage by machinery and the time
needed to work in the field.
Next week I will talk about the importance of using the correct fense posts.
Until next week.......Happy Trails.
Outbuildings are always useful
Outbuildings are to country property as legs are to a centipede. Each functions better when all are in working order and you have some to spare.
Urban buyers usually focus on a property’s house, because that is what they know. Nothing wrong with that. Equal attention, however, should be paid to the supporting cast of improvements, without which the show may go on but not very well. Working farms, in particular, rely on a few star structures and many role players.
As a real-estate agent working with country properties, I would always include a discussion of the utility and value of outbuildings with both sellers and buyers.
Barns are the upper crust of outbuilding society. State-of-the-art barns are high-tech, factory-type environments built for a specific production function like dairying or poultry. They may or may not be readily adaptable to other purposes.New barns on working farms tend to be functional—long on quick-construction techniques and short on Old-MacDonald charm. They use dollars efficiently in getting a lot of square feet under roof.
If you want to use existing barn space for something else, there’s usually a market for second-hand equipment. The advantage of reconfiguring existing structures is that you generally start with a lot of dry floor space, big doors, electricity and water. A concrete floor is a bonus. Older production systems, milking for instance, need to be evaluated carefully for age, capacity, energy efficiency, productivity and condition. Part-time farmers don’t need cutting-edge systems and equipment, though IRS regs encourage such business expenditures.
Old barns are the lollipops of nostalgia. Timber-framed and wood-sided, they creak, they’re warm and they smell good. An old-timer in good condition is an aesthetic blessing, though it may be impractical for modern needs. In the worst case, a wreck of an old barn may have significant salvage-and-recycle value. A barn was the central, life-sustaining structure of the old-fashioned farm. It was more important to a farm family than their residence. Most were built with care and craft. The ones that weren’t are today’s falling-in wrecks.
Approach old barns whose condition is between good and bad with great caution. Don’t let their charm pick your pocket. Some old-barn repairs are cheap and easy, and others are hard, dangerous and hideously expensive. Foundations and roofs can be wallet gobblers. Old barns may be eligible for state and federal preservation tax credits. Old barns provide a lot of vertical volume, which old-barn farmers needed for storing and feeding hay by hand. These structures provide limited, inefficient storage for machine-stacked round bales and seasonal equipment. On the other hand, they’re great for swings and sneezing.
When enthusiastic city visitors came for a visit during haying season years ago, sly hosts acknowledged their superior executive talents by starting them right at the top of the organization…up in the mow stacking bales under a metal roof on a 95-degree afternoon. Farm life today offers fewer opportunities for cross-cultural education.
Horse barns are fish in a different kettle. I’ve seen horses stabled in structures ranging from lean-tos, which leaned too much, to palaces where someone like me should have removed his shoes before entering.
Older farms have many outbuildings that were built for a single function, such as smoking meat, cooping chickens, storing grain, cooling food and providing workspaces. Whenever these structures are described as “dependencies,” the asking price is set at least 10 percent higher. Old sheds are distant cousins to old barns, though some argue against direct kinship.
A shed might be well-constructed, but many were tossed up hurriedly with second-rate or second-hand materials.
Three-sided sheds often become mental institutions for vehicles that no long run, boats that no longer float and basketballs that have lost their bounce. They may also house workout equipment that is no longer working out.
Supplies also go into outbuildings. Supplies come in two kinds: consumables and possibles. Consumables are used right away. Possibles are items that you are no longer using and may never use again. Nonetheless, you know you will need them if you don’t have them.
I maintain our outbuildings on an “as needed” basis, which means that I’m not as needed fixing them up as I am reading, writing or sleeping.
My “as-needed” approach is a green alternative to constant scraping and painting. I favor carbon-neutral strategies for outbuilding upkeep, which, in my case, only generate windbag gasses.
Shops are a type of outbuilding in which we repair what we have broken as well as things that are not broken. Every country place needs at least one shop, preferably with a concrete floor, overhead hoist, woodstove and fire extinguisher. Many men, as they age, retreat into their shops.
Some, like Jimmy Carter, emerge better for their repairs. Outbuildings are an asset when they’re useable, and a liability when they’re not. The best have learned to take care of themselves.
Urban buyers usually focus on a property’s house, because that is what they know. Nothing wrong with that. Equal attention, however, should be paid to the supporting cast of improvements, without which the show may go on but not very well. Working farms, in particular, rely on a few star structures and many role players.
As a real-estate agent working with country properties, I would always include a discussion of the utility and value of outbuildings with both sellers and buyers.
Barns are the upper crust of outbuilding society. State-of-the-art barns are high-tech, factory-type environments built for a specific production function like dairying or poultry. They may or may not be readily adaptable to other purposes.New barns on working farms tend to be functional—long on quick-construction techniques and short on Old-MacDonald charm. They use dollars efficiently in getting a lot of square feet under roof.
If you want to use existing barn space for something else, there’s usually a market for second-hand equipment. The advantage of reconfiguring existing structures is that you generally start with a lot of dry floor space, big doors, electricity and water. A concrete floor is a bonus. Older production systems, milking for instance, need to be evaluated carefully for age, capacity, energy efficiency, productivity and condition. Part-time farmers don’t need cutting-edge systems and equipment, though IRS regs encourage such business expenditures.
Old barns are the lollipops of nostalgia. Timber-framed and wood-sided, they creak, they’re warm and they smell good. An old-timer in good condition is an aesthetic blessing, though it may be impractical for modern needs. In the worst case, a wreck of an old barn may have significant salvage-and-recycle value. A barn was the central, life-sustaining structure of the old-fashioned farm. It was more important to a farm family than their residence. Most were built with care and craft. The ones that weren’t are today’s falling-in wrecks.
Approach old barns whose condition is between good and bad with great caution. Don’t let their charm pick your pocket. Some old-barn repairs are cheap and easy, and others are hard, dangerous and hideously expensive. Foundations and roofs can be wallet gobblers. Old barns may be eligible for state and federal preservation tax credits. Old barns provide a lot of vertical volume, which old-barn farmers needed for storing and feeding hay by hand. These structures provide limited, inefficient storage for machine-stacked round bales and seasonal equipment. On the other hand, they’re great for swings and sneezing.
When enthusiastic city visitors came for a visit during haying season years ago, sly hosts acknowledged their superior executive talents by starting them right at the top of the organization…up in the mow stacking bales under a metal roof on a 95-degree afternoon. Farm life today offers fewer opportunities for cross-cultural education.
Horse barns are fish in a different kettle. I’ve seen horses stabled in structures ranging from lean-tos, which leaned too much, to palaces where someone like me should have removed his shoes before entering.
Older farms have many outbuildings that were built for a single function, such as smoking meat, cooping chickens, storing grain, cooling food and providing workspaces. Whenever these structures are described as “dependencies,” the asking price is set at least 10 percent higher. Old sheds are distant cousins to old barns, though some argue against direct kinship.
A shed might be well-constructed, but many were tossed up hurriedly with second-rate or second-hand materials.
Three-sided sheds often become mental institutions for vehicles that no long run, boats that no longer float and basketballs that have lost their bounce. They may also house workout equipment that is no longer working out.
Supplies also go into outbuildings. Supplies come in two kinds: consumables and possibles. Consumables are used right away. Possibles are items that you are no longer using and may never use again. Nonetheless, you know you will need them if you don’t have them.
I maintain our outbuildings on an “as needed” basis, which means that I’m not as needed fixing them up as I am reading, writing or sleeping.
My “as-needed” approach is a green alternative to constant scraping and painting. I favor carbon-neutral strategies for outbuilding upkeep, which, in my case, only generate windbag gasses.
Shops are a type of outbuilding in which we repair what we have broken as well as things that are not broken. Every country place needs at least one shop, preferably with a concrete floor, overhead hoist, woodstove and fire extinguisher. Many men, as they age, retreat into their shops.
Some, like Jimmy Carter, emerge better for their repairs. Outbuildings are an asset when they’re useable, and a liability when they’re not. The best have learned to take care of themselves.
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Dear John, PLEASE COME HOME
John Homebuyer! Where ya been?
I am writing this to all of the home buyers out there. I’m calling you John so if your name is Amy, Elijah, Toni, or Bob, don’t be offended. Your last name may be different but for today your last name is Homebuyer. So, this letter is for you, John Homebuyer.
Anyway, how have you been ? We’ve missed you a lot this year in the housing market, John. I know that we’ve had a heckuva party the first five years of the decade and frankly, it might have gotten a little too crazy for you. Sorry about that. You know how it is when that cheap money keeps flowing like a keg at a frat party; nobody ever knows when to say when. Some of us didn’t see you slip out the back door when that groovy band, The Speculators, came in and started selling homes to each other last year. I’m sorry I didn’t get a chance to tell you good bye and get your phone number. I really wanted to get together .
John, let me tell you the gossip. The Speculators really weren’t that good; they only knew one or two songs. A new guy named Ben Bernanke came and made all the mortgage brokers straighten up and fly right. He raised the price of money. Fortunately, it looks like he stopped. The sellers are all in a fog now. They don’t know how the price of their homes isn’t logical to someone like you BUT…they’re starting to get the message. The builders? Fuhgedaboutit.
I think we’re all in bit in a fog but we’ll be partying again soon. I know that you’re hearing all kinds of bad things from those dudes at the newspapers, and the TV, and on blogs on the internet but you have to remember that they are spectators not players. In the meantime, you have a pretty good chance to be first in line when the new band gets cranked up. They’ve got kind of gloomy sound but you might like them. They’re called “The Foreclosures”. I heard them back in the 90s and man they are even better than “The Speculators“. I hear they’re back for their “Together Again Tour”. I promise you that you won’t want to miss their show!
We’ve toned things down a lot since the last party. Mortgate brokers aren't letting the underage kids get into the party with those exotic loans anymore. Dude, that was nuts! Now they actually care if you can make the payments. We’ll get you pre-approved with some sane terms and find you a payment you can afford. We’ll introduce you to some really cool mortgage brokers who learned a few things from the last party too.
The Rural KC Team totally rocks! When “The Foreclosures” start playing, they’ll get you front row seats below face value. All they have to do is low-ball the sellers. Those sellers are in such a fog and are so scared of “ The Foreclosures: Together Again Tour” that they’ll bail and you’ll get a SWEET deal!
John, we really miss you. We’ll make sure to listen to you. You’ve been so good to us in the past and without you, there just isn’t any party! Call the Rural KC Team or just leave your number here. I’m looking forward to seeing you again!
Until next week.........Happy Trails
I am writing this to all of the home buyers out there. I’m calling you John so if your name is Amy, Elijah, Toni, or Bob, don’t be offended. Your last name may be different but for today your last name is Homebuyer. So, this letter is for you, John Homebuyer.
Anyway, how have you been ? We’ve missed you a lot this year in the housing market, John. I know that we’ve had a heckuva party the first five years of the decade and frankly, it might have gotten a little too crazy for you. Sorry about that. You know how it is when that cheap money keeps flowing like a keg at a frat party; nobody ever knows when to say when. Some of us didn’t see you slip out the back door when that groovy band, The Speculators, came in and started selling homes to each other last year. I’m sorry I didn’t get a chance to tell you good bye and get your phone number. I really wanted to get together .
John, let me tell you the gossip. The Speculators really weren’t that good; they only knew one or two songs. A new guy named Ben Bernanke came and made all the mortgage brokers straighten up and fly right. He raised the price of money. Fortunately, it looks like he stopped. The sellers are all in a fog now. They don’t know how the price of their homes isn’t logical to someone like you BUT…they’re starting to get the message. The builders? Fuhgedaboutit.
I think we’re all in bit in a fog but we’ll be partying again soon. I know that you’re hearing all kinds of bad things from those dudes at the newspapers, and the TV, and on blogs on the internet but you have to remember that they are spectators not players. In the meantime, you have a pretty good chance to be first in line when the new band gets cranked up. They’ve got kind of gloomy sound but you might like them. They’re called “The Foreclosures”. I heard them back in the 90s and man they are even better than “The Speculators“. I hear they’re back for their “Together Again Tour”. I promise you that you won’t want to miss their show!
We’ve toned things down a lot since the last party. Mortgate brokers aren't letting the underage kids get into the party with those exotic loans anymore. Dude, that was nuts! Now they actually care if you can make the payments. We’ll get you pre-approved with some sane terms and find you a payment you can afford. We’ll introduce you to some really cool mortgage brokers who learned a few things from the last party too.
The Rural KC Team totally rocks! When “The Foreclosures” start playing, they’ll get you front row seats below face value. All they have to do is low-ball the sellers. Those sellers are in such a fog and are so scared of “ The Foreclosures: Together Again Tour” that they’ll bail and you’ll get a SWEET deal!
John, we really miss you. We’ll make sure to listen to you. You’ve been so good to us in the past and without you, there just isn’t any party! Call the Rural KC Team or just leave your number here. I’m looking forward to seeing you again!
Until next week.........Happy Trails
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Contingencies on Country Property
Contingencies on buying real estate are pretty well understood when it comes to buying residential property. Common contingencies include a getting approval for a loan, selling your currrent home to buy a new one, having various inspections completed etc. But contingencies when buying country property can be entirely different, but just as important.
- Contingencies are generally set up to either allow a buyer to investigate one or more features of a property or have the seller do something. The buyer usually pays for the costs of research contingencies.Here are some common issues in country real estate that I’ve seen as the subject of contingencies. This list is illustrative, not exhaustive:
Improvements
Residence. House inspection by certified inspector.
Inspection of condition and operation of barns and other out-buildings
Suitability of soil for new construction
Obtain estimates to build or remodel.
Infrastructure
Inspection of existing septic system. (Design and capacity will be on file with local agency that issued the construction permit.)
Percolation test. Contingency allows buyer to test soil for conventional septic-system site. Testing methods differ, but usually require a backhoe and a soil specialist. A conventional system is about 1/4th the cost of a “constructed” septic system.
Quality and quantity of household water. Quality is determined by taking a water sample and having it thoroughly tested for both organic and inorganic substances, not just bacteria.
Cost of installing new utilities to house or house site.
Boundary survey or having a surveyor perform some specific task that’s of concern. One common contingency is to have a surveyor confirm acreage and boundaries using a deed-mapper program. I recommend against buyers splitting the cost of a survey with sellers.
Clearing up a physical or legal access road issue.
Having the seller resolve a boundary encroachment with neighbor.
Condition of road or bridge
Environmental and natural resources
Test agricultural soils for productivity and qualities.
Examine fields and forests for condition, pests, blights, infestations, etc.
Have a consulting forester perform a walk-through or cruise to inventory the seller’s timber and determine its quality and condition.
Perform tests to determine extent of wind resources or subsurface minerals, such as oil, gas, coal or non-energy minerals
Test water for quality, quantity and reliability for agricultural applications
Look into risks from natural hazards, such as earthquake, flood, coastal flooding, tornados, hurricanes, landslides, lightning, fire, drought, etc.
Regulatory issues that would limit buyer’s use of the property, such as the presence of wetlands, endangered species or archeological resources
Tests for air, water or land pollutants
Wildlife/game inventory
Zoning and other administrative/legal actions.
Sale contingent on property being rezoned to allow division, different use or new agricultural activity. Seller gets rezoning; buyer pays costs.
Sale contingent on state highway department issuing new-entrance permit
Contingent on seller warranting that the property is free of unrecorded encumbrances and claims of adversity, along with a promise to defend the buyer against such claims and make the buyer whole if necessary
Contingent on getting Homeowner Association approval for something
Contingent on getting preliminary approval for a conservation easement, organic certification or land-use designation (which reduces property tax)
Contingent on getting acceptable answers from owners of minerals regarding their development plans
Contingent on obtaining an easement to cross a neighbor’s property, often used for access roads and utilities
Financial
Examination of farm tax returns, annual production records, timber records or mineral royalties
Preliminary approval or green light for participation in some federal program such as conservation cost-share or crop subsidy
Financing for purchase of property and operating capital
Purchase of some other property/asset the buyer needs to go with seller’s Property
While these arent' all of the potential contingencies it's a good place to start. To best protect yourself make sure your real estate agent is familiar with and has sold lots of country property. They can guilde you through the process and help you find the resources to make this a productive effort. For more information give us a call at the Rural KC Team, 913-837-4665, or email us at info@RuralKC.com
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Why A Buyer's Agent?
Why Use A Buyer's Agent
For a Real Estate purchase to occur there must be a buyer and a seller. A real estate agent or agents are involved in most purchases. Frequently, the agent(s) “representing” the Buyer is with the company “representing” the Seller. intObviously, the agent cannot represent the Buyer’s interests fully, while also representing the seller. Even when the agents are from different companies the agent working with the buyer may have listings which cause him/her to focus on selling property.
As a potential Buyer, if you really want your interests represented, an agent who will negotiate hard on your behalf, focuses on services that benefit you, and is knowledgeable about the things that are important to a Buyer, you need a Buyer’s Agent to work with and for you!
......................................................
What a Buyer’s Agent does for You:
A Buyer’s Agent pledges to work for the Buyer:
To seek property that best fits the Buyer’s needs
To review pricing policies and trends
To help the Buyer analyze and select neighborhoods, schools, driving distances, a closing attorney and so on
To negotiate on behalf of the Buyer
To provide assistance and guidance with mortgages, insurance, warranties, inspection,and repairs
All with the objective of making the purchase process beneficial to the Buyer.
In closing, if you are currently shopping for a new home or acreage, please obtain a buyer's agent.
Until next week.........happy trails.
For a Real Estate purchase to occur there must be a buyer and a seller. A real estate agent or agents are involved in most purchases. Frequently, the agent(s) “representing” the Buyer is with the company “representing” the Seller. intObviously, the agent cannot represent the Buyer’s interests fully, while also representing the seller. Even when the agents are from different companies the agent working with the buyer may have listings which cause him/her to focus on selling property.
As a potential Buyer, if you really want your interests represented, an agent who will negotiate hard on your behalf, focuses on services that benefit you, and is knowledgeable about the things that are important to a Buyer, you need a Buyer’s Agent to work with and for you!
......................................................
What a Buyer’s Agent does for You:
A Buyer’s Agent pledges to work for the Buyer:
To seek property that best fits the Buyer’s needs
To review pricing policies and trends
To help the Buyer analyze and select neighborhoods, schools, driving distances, a closing attorney and so on
To negotiate on behalf of the Buyer
To provide assistance and guidance with mortgages, insurance, warranties, inspection,and repairs
All with the objective of making the purchase process beneficial to the Buyer.
In closing, if you are currently shopping for a new home or acreage, please obtain a buyer's agent.
Until next week.........happy trails.
Monday, June 15, 2009
How to buy your retirement country home
Most Americans stay where they are in retirement. Of the 420,000 relocators who cross state lines each year, most look to small towns, small cities, milder climates and a lower cost of living.
The younger you are when you start planning retirement, the better. But those of the 77 million Baby Boomers who have not saved enough may not be out of luck.
If relocating to a small town or rural area might be in your plans, here are ways to approach it:
Buy your retirement place as soon as you can. This is often hard to do, because it requires that you start a long-term investment when you’re young and many considerations are unknowable or subject to change.Some make decision easier by starting it as a second home that can become their retirement place.About nine percent of America’s 111 million householders (owners plus renters) — roughly 10 million — own a second home, the rate being highest among those in their 50s, according to Professor Rachel Drew, coauthor of a November, 2007 study by Harvard’s Joint Center for Housing Studies, “Projecting the Underlying Demand for New Housing Units: Inferences from the Past, Assumptions about the Future.”
The advantages of extending your second home into your retirement residence are many.
The second home can be used mostly as a rental unit with income helping to retire its mortgage and the owner getting many tax benefits along with some personal use. As equity builds and appreciation occurs, you have another asset to borrow against. You also can have local friends in place before retirement.
Buying a second home sooner allows you to buy a retirement place cheaper. The second home you bought for $100,000 30 years ago might easily cost $750,000 or more today as a retirement place. The tax-free profit you will get on the sale of your principal residence can now be used for retirement living rather than for the purchase of your next house.
Buy your retirement place with your IRA. A Roth Individual Retirement Account (IRA) is the best retirement savings vehicle available. It allows an individual to contribute $4,000 annually (on which tax is paid), but all principal and all appreciation can be withdrawn tax-free in retirement. Most of us keep our IRAs in stocks, CDs and bonds.
You can also use IRA money to buy a retirement place in advance of your retirement. You cannot live there or use it until you retire. And you can’t use the retirement property to collateralize a loan, even its own.
You can use its rental income before your retirement to pay for maintenance and build your IRA account. Using IRA money to buy rural land is simpler than buying a rural residence, since land generally requires little maintenance or insurance, and taxes are usually low.
If you sell timber or lease the IRA land for crops, minerals or hunting, your net income after taxes and expenses is added to your IRA. Taxes on income earned from the IRA property has to be paid from IRA funds. The biggest benefit of IRA real estate is its appreciated value, which you can sell before retirement and put the net into your account.
The IRS has established rules for buying and managing real estate with IRA money: you must know what they are and follow them. See Title 26—Internal Revenue Code, Section 408A, Roth IRAs. As always you should consult your investment advisor and a good accountant, but don't let that stop you from making your retirement dreams come true.
Want more information about where and how to find retirement properties just call us at 913-837-4665 or email us at info@RuralKC.com
The younger you are when you start planning retirement, the better. But those of the 77 million Baby Boomers who have not saved enough may not be out of luck.
If relocating to a small town or rural area might be in your plans, here are ways to approach it:
Buy your retirement place as soon as you can. This is often hard to do, because it requires that you start a long-term investment when you’re young and many considerations are unknowable or subject to change.Some make decision easier by starting it as a second home that can become their retirement place.About nine percent of America’s 111 million householders (owners plus renters) — roughly 10 million — own a second home, the rate being highest among those in their 50s, according to Professor Rachel Drew, coauthor of a November, 2007 study by Harvard’s Joint Center for Housing Studies, “Projecting the Underlying Demand for New Housing Units: Inferences from the Past, Assumptions about the Future.”
The advantages of extending your second home into your retirement residence are many.
The second home can be used mostly as a rental unit with income helping to retire its mortgage and the owner getting many tax benefits along with some personal use. As equity builds and appreciation occurs, you have another asset to borrow against. You also can have local friends in place before retirement.
Buying a second home sooner allows you to buy a retirement place cheaper. The second home you bought for $100,000 30 years ago might easily cost $750,000 or more today as a retirement place. The tax-free profit you will get on the sale of your principal residence can now be used for retirement living rather than for the purchase of your next house.
Buy your retirement place with your IRA. A Roth Individual Retirement Account (IRA) is the best retirement savings vehicle available. It allows an individual to contribute $4,000 annually (on which tax is paid), but all principal and all appreciation can be withdrawn tax-free in retirement. Most of us keep our IRAs in stocks, CDs and bonds.
You can also use IRA money to buy a retirement place in advance of your retirement. You cannot live there or use it until you retire. And you can’t use the retirement property to collateralize a loan, even its own.
You can use its rental income before your retirement to pay for maintenance and build your IRA account. Using IRA money to buy rural land is simpler than buying a rural residence, since land generally requires little maintenance or insurance, and taxes are usually low.
If you sell timber or lease the IRA land for crops, minerals or hunting, your net income after taxes and expenses is added to your IRA. Taxes on income earned from the IRA property has to be paid from IRA funds. The biggest benefit of IRA real estate is its appreciated value, which you can sell before retirement and put the net into your account.
The IRS has established rules for buying and managing real estate with IRA money: you must know what they are and follow them. See Title 26—Internal Revenue Code, Section 408A, Roth IRAs. As always you should consult your investment advisor and a good accountant, but don't let that stop you from making your retirement dreams come true.
Want more information about where and how to find retirement properties just call us at 913-837-4665 or email us at info@RuralKC.com
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
To Have a Horse In Your Life
“To Have a Horse In Your Life”
To have a horse in your life is a gift. In the matter of a few short years, a horse can teach a young girl courage, if she chooses to grab mane and hang on for dear life. Even the smallest of ponies is mightier than the tallest of girls. To conquer the fear of falling off , having one’s toes crushed, or being publicly humiliated at a horse show is an admirable feat for any child. For that, we can be grateful.
Horses teach us responsibility. Unlike a bicycle or a computer, a horse needs regular care and most of it requires that you get dirty and smelly and up off the couch. Choosing to leave your cozy kitchen to break the crust of ice off the water buckets is to choose responsibility. When our horses dip their noses and drink heartily; we know we’ve made the right choice.
Learning to care for a horse is both an art and a science. Some are easy keepers, requiring litt le more than regular turn-out, a flake of hay, and a trough of clean water. Others will test you - you’ll struggle to keep them from being too fat or too thin. You’ll have their feet shod regularly only to find shoes gone missing. Some are so accident-prone you’ll swear they’re intentionally
finding new ways to injure themselves.
If you weren’t raised with horses, you can’t know that they have unique personaliti es. You’d expect this from dogs, but horses? Indeed, there are clever horses, grumpy horses, and even horses with a sense of humor. Those prone to humor will test you by finding new ways to escape from the barn when you least expect it.
Horses can be timid or brave, lazy or athletic, obstinate or willing. You will hit it off with some horses and others will elude you altogether. There are as many “types” of horses as there are people - which makes the whole partnership thing all the more interesting.
If you’ve never ridden a horse, you probably assume it’s a simple thing you can learn in a weekend. You can, in fact, learn the basics on a Sunday, but to truly ride well takes a lifetime. Working with a living being is far more complex than turning a key in the ignition and putting the car or tractor in “drive.”
In addition to listening to your instructor, your horse will have a few things to say to you as well. On a good day, he’ll be happy to go along with the program and tolerate your mistakes; on a bad day, you’ll swear he’s trying to kill you. Perhaps he’s naughty or perhaps he’ fed up with how slowly you’re learning his language.
Regardless, the horse will have an opinion. He may choose to challenge you (which can ultimately make you a better rider) or he may carefully carry you over fences - if it suits him. It all depends on the partnership - and partnership is what it’s all about.
If you face your fears, swallow your pride, and are willing to work at it, you’ll learn lessons in courage, commitment, and compassion in addition to basic survival skills. You’ll discover just how hard you’re willing to work toward a goal, how little you know, and how much you have to learn. And, while some people think the horse “does all the work”, you’ll be challenged physically as well as mentally. Your horse may humble you completely. Or, you may find that sitting on his back is the closest you’ll get to heaven. You can choose to intimidate your horse, but do you really want to? The results may come more quickly, but will your work ever be as graceful as that gained through trust? The best partners choose to listen, as well as to tell. When
it works, we experience a sweet sense of accomplishment brought about by smarts, hard work, and mutual understanding between horse and rider. These are the days when you know with absolute certainty that your horse is enjoying his work.
If we make it to adulthood with horses sti ll in our lives, most of us have to squeeze riding into our oversaturated schedules; balancing our need for things equine with those of our households and employers. There is never enough time to ride, or to ride as well as we’d like. Hours in the barn are stolen pleasures. If it is in your blood to love horses, you share your life with them. Our horses know our secrets; we braid our tears into their manes and whisper our hopes into their ears. A barn is a sanctuary in an unsettled world, a sheltered place where life’s true priorities are clear: a warm place to sleep, someone who loves us, and the luxury of regular meals. Some of us need these reminders.
When you step back, it’s not just about horses - it’s about love, life, and learning. On any given day, a friend is celebrati ng the birth of a foal, a blue ribbon, or recovery from an illness. That same day, there is also loss: a broken limb, a case of colic, a decision to sustain a life or end it gently. As horse people, we share the accelerated life cycle of horses: the hurried rush of life, love, loss, and death that caring for these animals brings us.
When our partners pass, it is more than a moment of sorrow.
We mark our loss with words of grati tude for the ways our lives have been blessed.. Our memories are of joy, awe, and wonder. Absolute union. We honor our horses for their brave hearts, courage, and willingness to give. To those outside our circle, it must seem strange. To see us in our muddy boots, who would guess such poetry lives in our hearts? We celebrate our companions with praise worthy of heroes. Indeed, horses have the hearts of warriors and often carry us into and out of fields of battle.
Listen to stories of that once-in-a-lifetime horse; of journeys made and challenges met. The best of horses rise to the challenges we set before them, asking litt le in return. Those who know them understand how fully a horse can hold a human heart. Together, we share the pain of sudden loss and the lingering taste of long-term illness. We shoulder the burden of deciding when or whether to end the life of a true companion.
In the end, we’re not certain if God entrusts us to our horses--or our horses to us. Does it matter? We’re grateful God loaned us the horse in the fi rst place.
--Author Unknown
To have a horse in your life is a gift. In the matter of a few short years, a horse can teach a young girl courage, if she chooses to grab mane and hang on for dear life. Even the smallest of ponies is mightier than the tallest of girls. To conquer the fear of falling off , having one’s toes crushed, or being publicly humiliated at a horse show is an admirable feat for any child. For that, we can be grateful.
Horses teach us responsibility. Unlike a bicycle or a computer, a horse needs regular care and most of it requires that you get dirty and smelly and up off the couch. Choosing to leave your cozy kitchen to break the crust of ice off the water buckets is to choose responsibility. When our horses dip their noses and drink heartily; we know we’ve made the right choice.
Learning to care for a horse is both an art and a science. Some are easy keepers, requiring litt le more than regular turn-out, a flake of hay, and a trough of clean water. Others will test you - you’ll struggle to keep them from being too fat or too thin. You’ll have their feet shod regularly only to find shoes gone missing. Some are so accident-prone you’ll swear they’re intentionally
finding new ways to injure themselves.
If you weren’t raised with horses, you can’t know that they have unique personaliti es. You’d expect this from dogs, but horses? Indeed, there are clever horses, grumpy horses, and even horses with a sense of humor. Those prone to humor will test you by finding new ways to escape from the barn when you least expect it.
Horses can be timid or brave, lazy or athletic, obstinate or willing. You will hit it off with some horses and others will elude you altogether. There are as many “types” of horses as there are people - which makes the whole partnership thing all the more interesting.
If you’ve never ridden a horse, you probably assume it’s a simple thing you can learn in a weekend. You can, in fact, learn the basics on a Sunday, but to truly ride well takes a lifetime. Working with a living being is far more complex than turning a key in the ignition and putting the car or tractor in “drive.”
In addition to listening to your instructor, your horse will have a few things to say to you as well. On a good day, he’ll be happy to go along with the program and tolerate your mistakes; on a bad day, you’ll swear he’s trying to kill you. Perhaps he’s naughty or perhaps he’ fed up with how slowly you’re learning his language.
Regardless, the horse will have an opinion. He may choose to challenge you (which can ultimately make you a better rider) or he may carefully carry you over fences - if it suits him. It all depends on the partnership - and partnership is what it’s all about.
If you face your fears, swallow your pride, and are willing to work at it, you’ll learn lessons in courage, commitment, and compassion in addition to basic survival skills. You’ll discover just how hard you’re willing to work toward a goal, how little you know, and how much you have to learn. And, while some people think the horse “does all the work”, you’ll be challenged physically as well as mentally. Your horse may humble you completely. Or, you may find that sitting on his back is the closest you’ll get to heaven. You can choose to intimidate your horse, but do you really want to? The results may come more quickly, but will your work ever be as graceful as that gained through trust? The best partners choose to listen, as well as to tell. When
it works, we experience a sweet sense of accomplishment brought about by smarts, hard work, and mutual understanding between horse and rider. These are the days when you know with absolute certainty that your horse is enjoying his work.
If we make it to adulthood with horses sti ll in our lives, most of us have to squeeze riding into our oversaturated schedules; balancing our need for things equine with those of our households and employers. There is never enough time to ride, or to ride as well as we’d like. Hours in the barn are stolen pleasures. If it is in your blood to love horses, you share your life with them. Our horses know our secrets; we braid our tears into their manes and whisper our hopes into their ears. A barn is a sanctuary in an unsettled world, a sheltered place where life’s true priorities are clear: a warm place to sleep, someone who loves us, and the luxury of regular meals. Some of us need these reminders.
When you step back, it’s not just about horses - it’s about love, life, and learning. On any given day, a friend is celebrati ng the birth of a foal, a blue ribbon, or recovery from an illness. That same day, there is also loss: a broken limb, a case of colic, a decision to sustain a life or end it gently. As horse people, we share the accelerated life cycle of horses: the hurried rush of life, love, loss, and death that caring for these animals brings us.
When our partners pass, it is more than a moment of sorrow.
We mark our loss with words of grati tude for the ways our lives have been blessed.. Our memories are of joy, awe, and wonder. Absolute union. We honor our horses for their brave hearts, courage, and willingness to give. To those outside our circle, it must seem strange. To see us in our muddy boots, who would guess such poetry lives in our hearts? We celebrate our companions with praise worthy of heroes. Indeed, horses have the hearts of warriors and often carry us into and out of fields of battle.
Listen to stories of that once-in-a-lifetime horse; of journeys made and challenges met. The best of horses rise to the challenges we set before them, asking litt le in return. Those who know them understand how fully a horse can hold a human heart. Together, we share the pain of sudden loss and the lingering taste of long-term illness. We shoulder the burden of deciding when or whether to end the life of a true companion.
In the end, we’re not certain if God entrusts us to our horses--or our horses to us. Does it matter? We’re grateful God loaned us the horse in the fi rst place.
--Author Unknown
Monday, June 8, 2009
I got DUPED by a spam email
This is a little off topic topic but if you've never been foolish enough to fall prey to a spam email let me tell you it ain't no fun. It all started with something that seemed innocent enough to me but that rapidly began a descent into email hell.
I got an innocent looking email that said an acquaintance of mine wanted me to see some pictures she had posted on something called TAGGED. Well it look sort of like one of those things you get when someone sends you an album of pictures and you have to click on a link to open the albums. It was late on Sunday night I was taking one last look at my email before I went to bed after a great but exhausting weekend of playing host to my two granddaughters ages 5 and 3. I was beat and not thinking clearly. Plus the thumbnail pictures being shown were of horses and this acquaintance of mine is a horse owner. So I bit on it.
Now the obvious signs of this being a scam were there, why I didn't see any of them I don't know, but I took the next stupid step. First there was a comment that said my acquaintance would be upset with me if I didn't sign up to see the pictures. Then, and this is the one I really cant forgive myself for, it asked for my email password and I entered it. I know, I know, I know, I am a dumbkoff, but enter it I did. I knew right away that I had screwed up because there were no pictures.
So now I went into panic mode. I updated my virus scan and did a full system scan. This took about 30 minutes, long after I had wanted to be in bed. The good news was that this thing does not install a virus on your system, in fact it doesn't hurt your system at all. So I did think to change the password on my email system and thought that would be that. So I fell asleep waiting for me virus scan to be completed. About 12:30 I woke up again and went to check my computer to see how the scan turned out and to turn my computer off. I was glad to see the scan showed no virus', but there was the first email, "Bill did you send me this email about pictures on TAGGED." RATS the dang thing was spamming my email contacts list. What do I do now?
Now I went into panic mode number 2 which consisted of tossing and turning while trying to sleep and not think about what I had done. Finally at 5 AM I couldn't stand it anymore and got up and blearily went to my computer to figure how I could solve this problem.
It took me about an hour to figure out how to get to my email accounts list of "contacts" and how to send a large number of those people a notice that. "I DID NOT SEND YOU THE EMAIL ABOUT THE PICTURES, SO DON'T OPEN IT." I sent that to the some of the 738 contacts I had in my email system.
Then I got the email from an East Coast friend that said they looked this thing up on snopes and that it was just an annoying way to get people to sign up to this social networking system, but that it did no harm to anyone beyond that, here is the link to snopes http://www.snopes.com/computer/internet/tagged.asp.
Well I was somewhat relieved to know I wasn't part of a plot to install virus' on peoples computers, and now made the mistake of overcompensating. I wanted people to know I was not a bad guy, and I wanted to make sure they didn't put me on their spam list. So I decided to send out a second email. This one would go EVERYONE on my contacts list, (I had learned a lot about my contacts list, and was feeling confident at this point). So I composed a new message.
I wanted to assure people that there was nothing dangerous about the original spam message they might have gotten from me. So I entitled this one, "If you got an email message from Bill Gaughan about pictures, it is not harmful". Well it never occurred to me that if I were going to send out a harmful message THIS IS EXACTLY HOW I WOULD TITLE IT. Plus as I was sending these out in batches of 99 I got a message from my email provider, that I had exceeded the maximum number of messages I could send in a day, and MY ABILITY TO SEND EMAIL WOULD BE CUT OFF FOR 24 HOURS.
So now I started getting more emails, "Bill did you send this?", but of course I can't respond for 24 hours. I imagine I will be reported as a spammer and all the people I need to correspond with will no longer get any email at all from me.
So far this is eaten up about 6 total hours of my time. I'm operating on little to no sleep, but I suppose the good news is my total email traffic will now drop off to almost nothing because everyone THINKS I'M A SPAMMER!!!!.
I love technology.
I got an innocent looking email that said an acquaintance of mine wanted me to see some pictures she had posted on something called TAGGED. Well it look sort of like one of those things you get when someone sends you an album of pictures and you have to click on a link to open the albums. It was late on Sunday night I was taking one last look at my email before I went to bed after a great but exhausting weekend of playing host to my two granddaughters ages 5 and 3. I was beat and not thinking clearly. Plus the thumbnail pictures being shown were of horses and this acquaintance of mine is a horse owner. So I bit on it.
Now the obvious signs of this being a scam were there, why I didn't see any of them I don't know, but I took the next stupid step. First there was a comment that said my acquaintance would be upset with me if I didn't sign up to see the pictures. Then, and this is the one I really cant forgive myself for, it asked for my email password and I entered it. I know, I know, I know, I am a dumbkoff, but enter it I did. I knew right away that I had screwed up because there were no pictures.
So now I went into panic mode. I updated my virus scan and did a full system scan. This took about 30 minutes, long after I had wanted to be in bed. The good news was that this thing does not install a virus on your system, in fact it doesn't hurt your system at all. So I did think to change the password on my email system and thought that would be that. So I fell asleep waiting for me virus scan to be completed. About 12:30 I woke up again and went to check my computer to see how the scan turned out and to turn my computer off. I was glad to see the scan showed no virus', but there was the first email, "Bill did you send me this email about pictures on TAGGED." RATS the dang thing was spamming my email contacts list. What do I do now?
Now I went into panic mode number 2 which consisted of tossing and turning while trying to sleep and not think about what I had done. Finally at 5 AM I couldn't stand it anymore and got up and blearily went to my computer to figure how I could solve this problem.
It took me about an hour to figure out how to get to my email accounts list of "contacts" and how to send a large number of those people a notice that. "I DID NOT SEND YOU THE EMAIL ABOUT THE PICTURES, SO DON'T OPEN IT." I sent that to the some of the 738 contacts I had in my email system.
Then I got the email from an East Coast friend that said they looked this thing up on snopes and that it was just an annoying way to get people to sign up to this social networking system, but that it did no harm to anyone beyond that, here is the link to snopes http://www.snopes.com/computer/internet/tagged.asp.
Well I was somewhat relieved to know I wasn't part of a plot to install virus' on peoples computers, and now made the mistake of overcompensating. I wanted people to know I was not a bad guy, and I wanted to make sure they didn't put me on their spam list. So I decided to send out a second email. This one would go EVERYONE on my contacts list, (I had learned a lot about my contacts list, and was feeling confident at this point). So I composed a new message.
I wanted to assure people that there was nothing dangerous about the original spam message they might have gotten from me. So I entitled this one, "If you got an email message from Bill Gaughan about pictures, it is not harmful". Well it never occurred to me that if I were going to send out a harmful message THIS IS EXACTLY HOW I WOULD TITLE IT. Plus as I was sending these out in batches of 99 I got a message from my email provider, that I had exceeded the maximum number of messages I could send in a day, and MY ABILITY TO SEND EMAIL WOULD BE CUT OFF FOR 24 HOURS.
So now I started getting more emails, "Bill did you send this?", but of course I can't respond for 24 hours. I imagine I will be reported as a spammer and all the people I need to correspond with will no longer get any email at all from me.
So far this is eaten up about 6 total hours of my time. I'm operating on little to no sleep, but I suppose the good news is my total email traffic will now drop off to almost nothing because everyone THINKS I'M A SPAMMER!!!!.
I love technology.
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Is Your Real Estate Agent An Equestrian Specialist?
Is your Real Estate Agent an equestrian specialist?
Your real estate agent may know houses - but what do they know about horses and farms?
A real estate agent that does primarily residential homes will most likely NOT know all the ins-and-outs when it comes to dealing with horse farms.
There are literally HUNDREDS of questions that an equestrian specialist should know to provide guidance for their clients. [And it goes well beyond knowing which end of the horse you give the hay to.]
Here are just a few questions to ask your prospective real estate agent:
How many acres do you need per horse?
Answer: Do you intend to provide full care with stalls, feed, & supplements? Or are you going to provide solely field care, with only a run-in shed for shelter?
For Kansas and Missouri, its fairly accepted that to sustain a horse, its 2.4 acres per horse with constant turn out and no grain supplementation. If you provide feed and rotate pastures, it can go as low as 1 acre in some areas - but this minimum is becoming restricted out by many government zoning regulations.
Ask your real estate agent for guidance.
Have the fields been seeded/planted with any type of pasture mix grasses suitable for horses?
Answer: Hay/grass suitable for cows is usually NOT high enough quality for horses. And if you have pregnant mares - you better check if the property has any Tall Fescue. Mares can abort their foals if they feed on this grass. Fescue is a common grass for grazing because its easily established, tolerates close grazing, survives drought conditions that can wither other grasses, and it stands up to heavy traffic. It is also resistant to disease, insects, and weed competition. But, this “wonder grass”, can also carry a toxin that is associated with an endophyte fungus. The fungus lives within the plant and cannot be detected visually; however, you can test the fescue for the level of endophyte infection. So you need to know, particularly if you have mares: is there any Tall Fescue on the property? Please note that there are some endophyte free varieties of fescue available - most of these are called short fescue.
What type of fencing is appropriate for horses?
Answer: Fencing for other livestock is probably not what you should use for horses. Remember the old term “horse play”. Theres a reason why that term exists. Horses are active, large animals that when they get going, they can get themselves into trouble in a hurry if you don’t provide them a safe environment within which to roam.
There are LOTS of choices available: diamond mesh, no climb, PVC, HTP, etc, etc.
However, one important thing to note: installing fence for maximum safety is different than installation for aesthetics.
Installation for aesthetics has the boards placed on the outside of where the horses will be. It is visually more appealing - but if a horse builds up a good head of steam and runs into the fence, instead of having to break the boards, all they have to do is push the nails out - and the boards with the nails still in them, will be laying on the ground while your horse is roaming free.
Installation for safety has the boards placed on the inside where the horses will be. That way, if a horse runs into the fence, they actually have to break the boards to get through. Common way of finding out if the fence is installed this way, is asking a non-horse person: “does the fence look like it was put in backwards?” If they say yes, then you know its probably installed with safety taking a priority over aesthetics.
And there are 2 main types of wood used for this type of fence: Oak and Poplar. Oak is harder and as a result, horses don’t chew on it as much - but it can be prone to splitting, cracking, and warping. Poplar is a softer wood that generally stays straighter, and is less prone to split, crack, or warp - BUT horses like to chew on it. A lot of persons go with an oak board for the top rail, and poplar for the others. This allows the horses to chew on the hard oak (which they don’t like usually), while having the benefit of straighter boards on the bottom rails - where horses are less likely to chew regularly.
The 2nd type of fence is a new product that is gaining acceptance within the horse community called Electrobraid. It looks essentially like a yachting rope, that has wire woven into it. Since its rope, its flexible - with no hard edges or sharp points. And unlike board fence that you may end up replacing every 5-7 years - it comes with a 25 year warranty.
Again, ask your real estate agent for guidance on what may be best suited for your needs.
These are just a few of the MANY, MANY questions (and answers) that your real estate agent should be able to provide if they are a proficient horse farm real estate professional.
Other questions include:
Riding Arena construction: Most arenas are constructed incorrectly. Did they remove the top soil and get down to clay to begin construction? If they had to place fill, what compaction % should the sub-base be rated at? what grade should the arena be? what base should you use: gravel? dense grade? stone dust? what about top coat choices - did they use regular sand, or angulated sand? or did they go with one of the composite materials? or perhaps a blend? did they use a french drain?
Barn design: how large of an aisle do you need? what about ceiling height? how large do the stalls need to be? how much hay storage do you need per horse?
ETC.
ETC.
The list goes on and on and on.
Hundreds of items that your real estate agent should know. Do they?
Make sure your real estate agent is knowledgeable - and that they are able to provide for you in your search for your horse farm. A real estate agent that is an equestrian real estate specialist can provide very valuable tips, advice, and guidance to ensure your needs are addressed in your horse farms purchase.
Until next week, Happy Trails!
Your real estate agent may know houses - but what do they know about horses and farms?
A real estate agent that does primarily residential homes will most likely NOT know all the ins-and-outs when it comes to dealing with horse farms.
There are literally HUNDREDS of questions that an equestrian specialist should know to provide guidance for their clients. [And it goes well beyond knowing which end of the horse you give the hay to.]
Here are just a few questions to ask your prospective real estate agent:
How many acres do you need per horse?
Answer: Do you intend to provide full care with stalls, feed, & supplements? Or are you going to provide solely field care, with only a run-in shed for shelter?
For Kansas and Missouri, its fairly accepted that to sustain a horse, its 2.4 acres per horse with constant turn out and no grain supplementation. If you provide feed and rotate pastures, it can go as low as 1 acre in some areas - but this minimum is becoming restricted out by many government zoning regulations.
Ask your real estate agent for guidance.
Have the fields been seeded/planted with any type of pasture mix grasses suitable for horses?
Answer: Hay/grass suitable for cows is usually NOT high enough quality for horses. And if you have pregnant mares - you better check if the property has any Tall Fescue. Mares can abort their foals if they feed on this grass. Fescue is a common grass for grazing because its easily established, tolerates close grazing, survives drought conditions that can wither other grasses, and it stands up to heavy traffic. It is also resistant to disease, insects, and weed competition. But, this “wonder grass”, can also carry a toxin that is associated with an endophyte fungus. The fungus lives within the plant and cannot be detected visually; however, you can test the fescue for the level of endophyte infection. So you need to know, particularly if you have mares: is there any Tall Fescue on the property? Please note that there are some endophyte free varieties of fescue available - most of these are called short fescue.
What type of fencing is appropriate for horses?
Answer: Fencing for other livestock is probably not what you should use for horses. Remember the old term “horse play”. Theres a reason why that term exists. Horses are active, large animals that when they get going, they can get themselves into trouble in a hurry if you don’t provide them a safe environment within which to roam.
There are LOTS of choices available: diamond mesh, no climb, PVC, HTP, etc, etc.
However, one important thing to note: installing fence for maximum safety is different than installation for aesthetics.
Installation for aesthetics has the boards placed on the outside of where the horses will be. It is visually more appealing - but if a horse builds up a good head of steam and runs into the fence, instead of having to break the boards, all they have to do is push the nails out - and the boards with the nails still in them, will be laying on the ground while your horse is roaming free.
Installation for safety has the boards placed on the inside where the horses will be. That way, if a horse runs into the fence, they actually have to break the boards to get through. Common way of finding out if the fence is installed this way, is asking a non-horse person: “does the fence look like it was put in backwards?” If they say yes, then you know its probably installed with safety taking a priority over aesthetics.
And there are 2 main types of wood used for this type of fence: Oak and Poplar. Oak is harder and as a result, horses don’t chew on it as much - but it can be prone to splitting, cracking, and warping. Poplar is a softer wood that generally stays straighter, and is less prone to split, crack, or warp - BUT horses like to chew on it. A lot of persons go with an oak board for the top rail, and poplar for the others. This allows the horses to chew on the hard oak (which they don’t like usually), while having the benefit of straighter boards on the bottom rails - where horses are less likely to chew regularly.
The 2nd type of fence is a new product that is gaining acceptance within the horse community called Electrobraid. It looks essentially like a yachting rope, that has wire woven into it. Since its rope, its flexible - with no hard edges or sharp points. And unlike board fence that you may end up replacing every 5-7 years - it comes with a 25 year warranty.
Again, ask your real estate agent for guidance on what may be best suited for your needs.
These are just a few of the MANY, MANY questions (and answers) that your real estate agent should be able to provide if they are a proficient horse farm real estate professional.
Other questions include:
Riding Arena construction: Most arenas are constructed incorrectly. Did they remove the top soil and get down to clay to begin construction? If they had to place fill, what compaction % should the sub-base be rated at? what grade should the arena be? what base should you use: gravel? dense grade? stone dust? what about top coat choices - did they use regular sand, or angulated sand? or did they go with one of the composite materials? or perhaps a blend? did they use a french drain?
Barn design: how large of an aisle do you need? what about ceiling height? how large do the stalls need to be? how much hay storage do you need per horse?
ETC.
ETC.
The list goes on and on and on.
Hundreds of items that your real estate agent should know. Do they?
Make sure your real estate agent is knowledgeable - and that they are able to provide for you in your search for your horse farm. A real estate agent that is an equestrian real estate specialist can provide very valuable tips, advice, and guidance to ensure your needs are addressed in your horse farms purchase.
Until next week, Happy Trails!
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
True Horse Definitions
Just for fun this week, I'm giving you the true definitions of the different disciplines of riding. Please don't be offended......I'm a trail rider:)
Natural Horsemanship devotee looks like a throwback from a Texas ranch, despite the fact that he grew up in the suburbs of NJ. Rope coiled loosely in hand (don't want to send any messages of tension, after all) in case he needs to herd any of those kids on rollerblades away from his/her F-350 dually in the WalMart parking lot. Cowboy hat is strategically placed, and just soiled enough to be cool. Wranglers are well worn, with that little wrinkle above the instep of the ropers, and lots of dust (well, you know, from the round pen) on the lower legs.
Dressage Queen is freshly coifed. Not even she remembers her own hair color, but she has taken great pains to ensure that Rolf, the hairdresser, makes the perm and highlights look "natural." Diamond studs are elegant and stately, and not so large that they blind the judge during the entire passage-piaffe tour. $30 dollar denim jumper worn over $300 full seat white breeches and custom Koenigs.
Hunter/Jumper competitor is in an aqua polo and those breeches whose color could be compared to, um, well, okay, let's say they're khaki. The polo is so that folks will think they're a jumper rider until they put on their shirt and stock tie. Baseball cap is mandatory after a ride, in order to provide free advertising to that trainer's stable for whom they shell over a mere grand or so per month, and to hide "helmet head."
Eventer is slightly hunched over. This could be from carrying three saddles, three bridles, three bits, and all related color coordinated gear to every event, or it could possibly be a defensive posture where he/she is unconsciously protecting his/her wallet, which is, of course, nearly empty from buying three saddles, three bridles, three bits and all related color coordinated gear. Looked down on by the H/J's as "people who just run their horses at fences" and by the DQ's as "not real dressage riders" Eventers are smugly convinced that they are in fact the only people in the horse world who CAN ride, since the H/J's don't jump real fences and the DQ's don't ride real horses.
Trail Rider is usually found wearing a "wife beater" (wife beaters know no gender) and jeans with several rips, tears and holes in them from being rammed into trees, wild rose bushes and rocks. Their 15 year old Justin boots are cut, stratched and marred so badly from being drug acrossed trees and dunked in rivers that you can't even remember what color they are. They usually have very, very nice saddle bags neatly tied on their saddle; nothing but the best for their beverage of choice.
Endurance addict is wearing lycra tights in some neon color. Has not read the rule that lycra is a privilege, not a right. The shinier, the better, so that they can find her body when her mount dumps her down (another) ravine. Wearing hiking sneakers of some sort and a smear of trail dirt on the cheek. Sporting one of the zillions of T-shirts she got for paying $75 to complete some other torturous ride. Socks may or may not match (each other).
Backyard rider can be found wearing (in summer) shorts and bra, (in winter) flannel nightgown, muck boots, down jacket. Drives a ford tempo filled with dirty blankets and dog hair. Usually has deformed toes on the right foot from being stepped on in the Walmart sneakers that are worn for riding. Roots need touching up to hide the grey. 2-horse bumperpull behind barn filled with sawdust/hay. Can be found trying to teach her horse to come in the kitchen to eat so she doesn't have to walk all the way to the barn.
Until next week......Happy Trails.
Natural Horsemanship devotee looks like a throwback from a Texas ranch, despite the fact that he grew up in the suburbs of NJ. Rope coiled loosely in hand (don't want to send any messages of tension, after all) in case he needs to herd any of those kids on rollerblades away from his/her F-350 dually in the WalMart parking lot. Cowboy hat is strategically placed, and just soiled enough to be cool. Wranglers are well worn, with that little wrinkle above the instep of the ropers, and lots of dust (well, you know, from the round pen) on the lower legs.
Dressage Queen is freshly coifed. Not even she remembers her own hair color, but she has taken great pains to ensure that Rolf, the hairdresser, makes the perm and highlights look "natural." Diamond studs are elegant and stately, and not so large that they blind the judge during the entire passage-piaffe tour. $30 dollar denim jumper worn over $300 full seat white breeches and custom Koenigs.
Hunter/Jumper competitor is in an aqua polo and those breeches whose color could be compared to, um, well, okay, let's say they're khaki. The polo is so that folks will think they're a jumper rider until they put on their shirt and stock tie. Baseball cap is mandatory after a ride, in order to provide free advertising to that trainer's stable for whom they shell over a mere grand or so per month, and to hide "helmet head."
Eventer is slightly hunched over. This could be from carrying three saddles, three bridles, three bits, and all related color coordinated gear to every event, or it could possibly be a defensive posture where he/she is unconsciously protecting his/her wallet, which is, of course, nearly empty from buying three saddles, three bridles, three bits and all related color coordinated gear. Looked down on by the H/J's as "people who just run their horses at fences" and by the DQ's as "not real dressage riders" Eventers are smugly convinced that they are in fact the only people in the horse world who CAN ride, since the H/J's don't jump real fences and the DQ's don't ride real horses.
Trail Rider is usually found wearing a "wife beater" (wife beaters know no gender) and jeans with several rips, tears and holes in them from being rammed into trees, wild rose bushes and rocks. Their 15 year old Justin boots are cut, stratched and marred so badly from being drug acrossed trees and dunked in rivers that you can't even remember what color they are. They usually have very, very nice saddle bags neatly tied on their saddle; nothing but the best for their beverage of choice.
Endurance addict is wearing lycra tights in some neon color. Has not read the rule that lycra is a privilege, not a right. The shinier, the better, so that they can find her body when her mount dumps her down (another) ravine. Wearing hiking sneakers of some sort and a smear of trail dirt on the cheek. Sporting one of the zillions of T-shirts she got for paying $75 to complete some other torturous ride. Socks may or may not match (each other).
Backyard rider can be found wearing (in summer) shorts and bra, (in winter) flannel nightgown, muck boots, down jacket. Drives a ford tempo filled with dirty blankets and dog hair. Usually has deformed toes on the right foot from being stepped on in the Walmart sneakers that are worn for riding. Roots need touching up to hide the grey. 2-horse bumperpull behind barn filled with sawdust/hay. Can be found trying to teach her horse to come in the kitchen to eat so she doesn't have to walk all the way to the barn.
Until next week......Happy Trails.
Monday, May 25, 2009
Financing Homes on large acreages
Well it doesn't seem like much of a problem. You have good credit, your home in the city is now under contract, you are pre-approved for far more than the country home on 40 acres you want to buy, so what could go wrong? You stop by your mortgage company, you've been with them for you years, you have a great relationship, and you went to high school with the manager. So imagine your shock when you find that they tell you they can't finance your mortgage.
Why not you ask? They then tell you that they are very comfortable financing homes in the city but they do not finance homes on large acreages, generally they draw the line at homes on 10 or fewer acres. All of a sudden what seemed to be your seamless easy move to the country is now at risk.
You are shocked and offended, how dare they turn you down after all those years, you'll just take your business elsewhere. So you just march down the street and find that the competition turns you down as well. What now?
You have just learned that sometimes it's difficult to find lenders willing to finance purchases of larger tracts of vacant land, even those with a home on them. So what are your options?
There are lenders that specialize in financing vacant land, and homes on vacant land. One of the largest of these is Farm Credit. They can take care of the entire mortgage. The downside is that they generally ask for more of a down payment and their rates are usually higher than the mortgage you are used to getting for your suburban home.
Another option is to contact banks with mortgage departments in the small towns and rural area where you new home is located. Another avenue is to use a mortgage broker whose job it is is to know where these types of loans can be found. These lenders are used to this situation and often can make the loan on the land in house and send the loan on the house and part of the acreage to the secondary market, just like you are normally used to doing.
There is a catch though. You usually have to have the land surveyed and broken into two parcels. One parcel will contain the home and 10 or fewer acres. The other parcel will be the balance of the land left when the house and 10 acres is subtracted. This will entail some expenses. There will be a survey fee, and usually some fees from the county where the lot split is done. It will also often take 60+ days to get approval for the county for this to occur.
So if you are planning on buying a home on a larger parcel of ground it is well worth your time to know in advance what lender will work with you and what the county regulations are to make this happen. Seem complicated? No need to worry just contact an experienced realtor who handles rural property and they can make this an easy process for you, make sure you are properly financed, meet all county regulations and write a contract that eases through this whole process.
Don't know of any such realtors? Well let me suggest you call 913-837-4665, or email infor@RuralKC.com and I'll bet we can find one for you.
Why not you ask? They then tell you that they are very comfortable financing homes in the city but they do not finance homes on large acreages, generally they draw the line at homes on 10 or fewer acres. All of a sudden what seemed to be your seamless easy move to the country is now at risk.
You are shocked and offended, how dare they turn you down after all those years, you'll just take your business elsewhere. So you just march down the street and find that the competition turns you down as well. What now?
You have just learned that sometimes it's difficult to find lenders willing to finance purchases of larger tracts of vacant land, even those with a home on them. So what are your options?
There are lenders that specialize in financing vacant land, and homes on vacant land. One of the largest of these is Farm Credit. They can take care of the entire mortgage. The downside is that they generally ask for more of a down payment and their rates are usually higher than the mortgage you are used to getting for your suburban home.
Another option is to contact banks with mortgage departments in the small towns and rural area where you new home is located. Another avenue is to use a mortgage broker whose job it is is to know where these types of loans can be found. These lenders are used to this situation and often can make the loan on the land in house and send the loan on the house and part of the acreage to the secondary market, just like you are normally used to doing.
There is a catch though. You usually have to have the land surveyed and broken into two parcels. One parcel will contain the home and 10 or fewer acres. The other parcel will be the balance of the land left when the house and 10 acres is subtracted. This will entail some expenses. There will be a survey fee, and usually some fees from the county where the lot split is done. It will also often take 60+ days to get approval for the county for this to occur.
So if you are planning on buying a home on a larger parcel of ground it is well worth your time to know in advance what lender will work with you and what the county regulations are to make this happen. Seem complicated? No need to worry just contact an experienced realtor who handles rural property and they can make this an easy process for you, make sure you are properly financed, meet all county regulations and write a contract that eases through this whole process.
Don't know of any such realtors? Well let me suggest you call 913-837-4665, or email infor@RuralKC.com and I'll bet we can find one for you.
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
FSBO or Realtor
For Sale By Owner or Realtor?????
There was a For Sale By Owner sign seen in a yard recently and it read: "We shoot every third Real Estate Agent that stops here, and the second one just left".
"Why do we need a real estate agent? After all, an agent will charge thousands of dollars to sell even an average home, and that commission comes right off the top! Heck, with the Internet and all, we can do practically everything that an agent would do, so why should we pay out all that money?" Many home sellers have similar thoughts, and because so much money is at stake, these questions deserve some serious thought.In today's world, the sale of real property is not just a marketing exercise; there are many legal issues involved which can create liability in the sellers. Of all the things you want and expect from selling your home, a lawsuit is probably not one of them.Unfortunately, residential transactions have seen an alarming increase in the number of claims and lawsuits. Of these claims, the majority are filed against sellers, by their buyers. Home sellers who think they can "go it alone" might want to seriously ponder the observations of a lawyer who has defended many sellers and real estate agents against claims made by "the Buyers from Hell." In most states, the process by which title to real property is transferred is rather complicated, and the typical home seller is not familiar with the many legal issues that can and do arise, even in a fairly simple transaction. Important decisions must be made concerning contract terms, escrow matters, transfer of title, apportionment of costs and any number of other matters. Also, bear in mind that a simple missing word, or a mistake in grammar can create a dispute which, in turn, can give rise to a lawsuit. Aside from the problem of drafting the contract language itself, sellers can face other dangers as well. For example, did you know:
That buyers who look for "FSBOs" usually offer 6-10% below the price of comparable properties because they know you are not paying a commission?
That there are substantial risks involved when a seller agrees to "carry back" a note from the buyer; risks that can cost you thousands of dollars?
That your good credit rating can be ruined by your buyer's default, many months, or even years, after that buyer "assumes" your loan?
That a clever buyer can stay in possession of your property for many months after he defaults on the contract, and in effect "live for free" at your expense?
So, please take the time and think about what the safest and most cost effective way to sell your home might be.
Until next time.......Happy Trails. Danicia
Monday, May 18, 2009
Did you know you can put land in your IRA?
Most people are completely unaware that you can buy land as part of your portfolio in an IRA. After the recent collapse of the stock market people are becoming a little less sure of the advice that they get from their financial advisors and are wondering if there are better, safer, cheaper altertnatives. Land may be among them. Below is an article published in a recent edition of Landthink blog, that provides more details. If you'd like us to help you with a land purchase just let us know and we'll be glad to assist.
You can invest in Land, improved or unimproved with a “Self Directed Retirement Plans” since the IRS has allowed them. No one wants to talk about it. “They”, the investment firms do not make money on a Land transaction because “they” are not licensed real estate agents. Only licensed real estate companies can take commissions and are not allowed to pay referrals except to other active real estate firms.
The traditional investment community has had control of over 97% percent of the retirement accounts and they have been making a great living off your hard earned money.
Your stock broker or financial advisor will not advise you how to take money away from their pockets and invest in real estate through your IRA, or 401K plan either. The financial magazines run large ads for brokerage firms and mutual funds T.V. and radio investment shows are supported by the same Wall Street advertising dollars…your money.
Stated on the IRS website “…..because of “administrative burdens”, many IRA trustees do not allow IRA owners to invest IRA funds in Real Estate. IRA law does not prohibit investing in Real Estate but trustees are not required to offer Real Estate as an option.” No commission for real estate sales may have a say here described as “administrative burdens”.
Be careful who you choose as your custodian. Most of these “professionals” are part of the same old 97% controlling crowd previously mentioned. Our recommendation is that you find one that charges an administration fee and believes in Land Investments.
You can invest in Land, improved or unimproved with a “Self Directed Retirement Plans” since the IRS has allowed them. No one wants to talk about it. “They”, the investment firms do not make money on a Land transaction because “they” are not licensed real estate agents. Only licensed real estate companies can take commissions and are not allowed to pay referrals except to other active real estate firms.
The traditional investment community has had control of over 97% percent of the retirement accounts and they have been making a great living off your hard earned money.
Your stock broker or financial advisor will not advise you how to take money away from their pockets and invest in real estate through your IRA, or 401K plan either. The financial magazines run large ads for brokerage firms and mutual funds T.V. and radio investment shows are supported by the same Wall Street advertising dollars…your money.
Stated on the IRS website “…..because of “administrative burdens”, many IRA trustees do not allow IRA owners to invest IRA funds in Real Estate. IRA law does not prohibit investing in Real Estate but trustees are not required to offer Real Estate as an option.” No commission for real estate sales may have a say here described as “administrative burdens”.
Be careful who you choose as your custodian. Most of these “professionals” are part of the same old 97% controlling crowd previously mentioned. Our recommendation is that you find one that charges an administration fee and believes in Land Investments.
Thursday, May 14, 2009
HORSE VS. HUSBAND (OR WIFE)
As you may know, the Rural KC Team specializes in selling country homes to people that are looking for the "good, clean country living". More likely than not, when folks buy their first property with acreage, they soon long for their own horse. Here are a few comparisons you might want to keep in mind.
GOOD THINGS ABOUT HUSBANDS
Husbands are less expensive to shoe.
Feeding a husband doesn't require anything that even mildly compares with the hassle of putting up hay.
A lame husband can still work.
A husband with a belly-ache doesn't have to be walked. Note .. this item prompted a response from someone else:
But if you've ever endured a husband who is rolling on the floor, screaming, and writhing in pain with a kidney stone at three in the morning, you know you can't put him down (and get away with it).
Husbands don't try to scratch their heads on your back.
They're better able to understand puns.
If they're playing hard to catch you *may* be able to run them down on foot.
They know their name.
They pay their own bills.
They apologize when they step on your toes.
No saddle fitting problems.
They seldom refuse to get in the vehicle.
They don't panic, yelling and running all through the house when you leave them alone. (unless you left the kids too)
For a nominal fee you can hire someone else to clip them.
They don't like the lady next door just as well as you just because she fed him 3 days straight.
THE HORSE'S ADVANTAGE
If they don't work out you can sell them.
They don't come with in-laws.
You don't have to worry about your children looking like them.
You never have to iron their saddle pads.
If you get too fat for one you can shop for a bigger one.
They smell good when they sweat.
You can repair their "clothes" with duct tape.
It's possible to keep them from "jumping the fence".
You can force them to stay in good physical condition...with a whip if necessary.
They don't want their turn at the computer.
They turn white with age, but not bald.
They've never *heard* of PMS.
They learn to accept restraint.
They love to go trail riding.
They don't care what you look like, as long as you have a carrot.
GOOD THINGS ABOUT A WIFE.
Your wife can feed herself if you have to leave town.
You can (usually) kiss your wife's neck without worrying about getting your feet stepped on.
You can shop for a new car without worrying about whether it's powerful enough to haul your wife.
If you call in sick at work to stay home and play with your wife, there's very little risk of serious injury that will be tough to explain to the boss the next day.
Your wife won't go roll in the mud right before an occasion when she needs to look her best.
Your wife can groom herself much better than you can.
Bathing your wife can be much more entertaining than bathing your horse, and doesn't require tying her up (unless you're into that).
If your wife loses a shoe, you can be pretty sure she has plenty of replacements in the closet.
Your wife's mane doesn't need to be pulled.
If your wife runs away from you, you don't care whether she gets hurt.
THE HORSE'S ADVANTAGE
Horses are less expensive to shoe. They'll happily wear the same set for weeks.
Horses are less expensive to clip, and one clip job may last all winter.
Your horse won't constantly ask you if his blanket makes his butt look big.
Your horse won't worry about whether his shoes match his saddle.
Your horse won't complain if you occasionally ride a different one.
You have more options for working out your horse's behavioral problems.
Your horse won't sulk if you forget his birthday.
Your horse's farts make yours seem like no big deal.
Your horse won't tell all his friends about every little mistake you make.
Your horse won't constantly nag you to redecorate the barn.
If your horse runs away from you, you can usually get him back.
Until next time.....Happy Trails. Danicia
GOOD THINGS ABOUT HUSBANDS
Husbands are less expensive to shoe.
Feeding a husband doesn't require anything that even mildly compares with the hassle of putting up hay.
A lame husband can still work.
A husband with a belly-ache doesn't have to be walked. Note .. this item prompted a response from someone else:
But if you've ever endured a husband who is rolling on the floor, screaming, and writhing in pain with a kidney stone at three in the morning, you know you can't put him down (and get away with it).
Husbands don't try to scratch their heads on your back.
They're better able to understand puns.
If they're playing hard to catch you *may* be able to run them down on foot.
They know their name.
They pay their own bills.
They apologize when they step on your toes.
No saddle fitting problems.
They seldom refuse to get in the vehicle.
They don't panic, yelling and running all through the house when you leave them alone. (unless you left the kids too)
For a nominal fee you can hire someone else to clip them.
They don't like the lady next door just as well as you just because she fed him 3 days straight.
THE HORSE'S ADVANTAGE
If they don't work out you can sell them.
They don't come with in-laws.
You don't have to worry about your children looking like them.
You never have to iron their saddle pads.
If you get too fat for one you can shop for a bigger one.
They smell good when they sweat.
You can repair their "clothes" with duct tape.
It's possible to keep them from "jumping the fence".
You can force them to stay in good physical condition...with a whip if necessary.
They don't want their turn at the computer.
They turn white with age, but not bald.
They've never *heard* of PMS.
They learn to accept restraint.
They love to go trail riding.
They don't care what you look like, as long as you have a carrot.
GOOD THINGS ABOUT A WIFE.
Your wife can feed herself if you have to leave town.
You can (usually) kiss your wife's neck without worrying about getting your feet stepped on.
You can shop for a new car without worrying about whether it's powerful enough to haul your wife.
If you call in sick at work to stay home and play with your wife, there's very little risk of serious injury that will be tough to explain to the boss the next day.
Your wife won't go roll in the mud right before an occasion when she needs to look her best.
Your wife can groom herself much better than you can.
Bathing your wife can be much more entertaining than bathing your horse, and doesn't require tying her up (unless you're into that).
If your wife loses a shoe, you can be pretty sure she has plenty of replacements in the closet.
Your wife's mane doesn't need to be pulled.
If your wife runs away from you, you don't care whether she gets hurt.
THE HORSE'S ADVANTAGE
Horses are less expensive to shoe. They'll happily wear the same set for weeks.
Horses are less expensive to clip, and one clip job may last all winter.
Your horse won't constantly ask you if his blanket makes his butt look big.
Your horse won't worry about whether his shoes match his saddle.
Your horse won't complain if you occasionally ride a different one.
You have more options for working out your horse's behavioral problems.
Your horse won't sulk if you forget his birthday.
Your horse's farts make yours seem like no big deal.
Your horse won't tell all his friends about every little mistake you make.
Your horse won't constantly nag you to redecorate the barn.
If your horse runs away from you, you can usually get him back.
Until next time.....Happy Trails. Danicia
Sunday, May 10, 2009
Who owns the fence?
So you’ve just bought your new property in the country and you notice you have long fence line with your neighbor. The fence line is on the property line so who owns it? And more importantly who maintains it? For a long time, centuries perhaps there has been a rural tradition about maintaining fences. Since each landowner had a vested interest in the integrity of the fence they tradition was that they would meet at the middle of the fence with each of them standing on their property and each would be responsible for the maintenance of the fence to their right.
Some people even today think that is what the law says. But it is really just tradition, not law. Now suppose you are building your country home site but your neighbor has a large cattle operation. Clearly then it’s up to him to maintain the fence to keep the cattle off of your property right? Well not so fast. In Kansas and Missouri as well as many other rural states there are left over laws from the free range days that state it’s up to you to keep cattle off of your property not the responsibility of a landowner to keep cattle in his property. So if you want people and livestock off of your property, it’s up to you to keep them out.
Now while that may be true in law it’s rarely if ever followed in day to day life. As a practical matter the rancher wants to keep the fence up and will no doubt maintain it. So practical reality almost always trumps 19th century laws.
Some people even today think that is what the law says. But it is really just tradition, not law. Now suppose you are building your country home site but your neighbor has a large cattle operation. Clearly then it’s up to him to maintain the fence to keep the cattle off of your property right? Well not so fast. In Kansas and Missouri as well as many other rural states there are left over laws from the free range days that state it’s up to you to keep cattle off of your property not the responsibility of a landowner to keep cattle in his property. So if you want people and livestock off of your property, it’s up to you to keep them out.
Now while that may be true in law it’s rarely if ever followed in day to day life. As a practical matter the rancher wants to keep the fence up and will no doubt maintain it. So practical reality almost always trumps 19th century laws.
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Well it's been a while since we've posted
Frankly the market was so weak in 2008 that it was hard to come up with anything either new or optimistic to post about. But ever since the first of the year we have been busier than at anytime in 2008, and as busy as we ever were in previous years. At first when we got busy we were scared that it was just a temporary bubble that would soon go away. But thank heaven we were wrong. So far this year our sales are up 300% over the same time period in 2008.
The fact is that this is a great market. Especially if you are a buyer. Did you ever notice how people always say they want to buy low and sell high? Well this is now a buy low market. But the "buy low" part of the scenario is a lot more difficult for people to actually execute. Everyone is anxious to sell high, but it takes a particular type of courage to actually make the buying decision to purchase in a down market.
I'd suggest that you talk to some old timers. Ask them what they paid for real estate, especially land that typically can't deteriorate on you and you will be amazed at how much they made over relatively short time spans even as short as 5 years. So if you ever wanted to "buy low" now is the time really consider making the plunge.
The fact is that this is a great market. Especially if you are a buyer. Did you ever notice how people always say they want to buy low and sell high? Well this is now a buy low market. But the "buy low" part of the scenario is a lot more difficult for people to actually execute. Everyone is anxious to sell high, but it takes a particular type of courage to actually make the buying decision to purchase in a down market.
I'd suggest that you talk to some old timers. Ask them what they paid for real estate, especially land that typically can't deteriorate on you and you will be amazed at how much they made over relatively short time spans even as short as 5 years. So if you ever wanted to "buy low" now is the time really consider making the plunge.
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